Milos Snapshot

Over the last few years a number of articles have appeared praising the quality of sea kayaking around Milos but these have largely focused on the warmer summer months. This year for a variety of reasons I was in Milos in both February and March and had two superb weeks of kayaking. We didn't lose a single day due to weather and were able to explore most of the coastline and some of the offshore islands.

By the end of March the water was warm enough to be swimming in without a wetsuit. The island was virtually empty of tourists and so parking and access to the sea was not a problem at all. So if you are thinking of some early season paddling for next year Greece is clearly an option and it is worth contacting some of the outfitters, such as Rod at Sea Kayak Milos.

Approaching Cape Vani, shelered from the westerly wind which was forecast to increase as the day progressed but which would blow us back to our departure point.

Crossing back to Plathiena. In the double with a steady force 6 we peaked at 23.6 kph. It felt fast.

Caves near Kleftico, SW Milos. Anybody who has paddled here ranks it amongst their favourite paddles of all time. In February we had the area to ourselves and managed a swim in our costumes.

Leaving the Akradia Islands to the north of Milos. The climb up to the church and the lighthouse was well worth the effort.

Heading up the east coast of the island prior to camping at the old Sulphur Mines. This is heaven for the kayaking geologist.

Qajaq

I came across this fascinating film, on traditional sea kayaking, which is the work of Nive Nielsen, an Inuit who was at Goldsmiths College, University of London.

What is particularly interesting for me is the footage of Kamp Absalonsen, he lives in Ilullisat and is vice-president of Qaannat Kattuffiat. I have met him several times in Brittany and he was a great host when we were in Greenland last summer. I am looking forward to renewing our contact in two weeks time when we arrive for a 3 week trip in Disko Bay.

QAJAQ (GL) by Nive Nielsen
Uploaded by CVA2009. - Watch original web videos.

Cliff Jumping

One of the more traditional pastimes in Jersey is cliff jumping. People elsewhere speak of coasteering or tombstoning, as it is frequently called in the media, as if it is a new phenomena but down here on the most southerly part of the British Isles nothing could be further from the truth. Generations of young people have sought adventure and excitement by leaping off cliffs into the sea.

Its good to start on smaller jumps to perfect technique before heading off to the bigger jumps.

Some of the higher jumps require contemplation. Before taking that leap of faith.

Kayaks, in their various forms, sit on tops or traditional sea kayaks are the perfect craft to allow access to the more remote jumps.

These pictures were taken on the 4th July off the south coast of Jersey, a superb environment for cliff jumping. Warm water, sunshine and solid rock.

Classic Nordkapp

Although the Nordkapp HM has lost some of its popularity over the years, as a wider range of sea kayaks have come onto the market, it still has a band of enthusiastic followers and it has to be said that its design is still one of the most beautiful which is available.

The design made its first appearance in the early to mid 1970's and was used on the 1975 Nordkapp expedition, which involved paddlers such as Colin Mortlock and Sam Cook. For many sea kayakers the HM version was the ultimate paddling machine. HM stands for "Hatches and Modified Hull". Fast through the water it holds a straight line but is a real challenge to turn. If there are any waves then it can turn into quite a wet ride, the "Nordkapp plunging bow" is a recognised phenomena. The restricted buoyancy at the front of the kayak means that it frequently plunges into waves which are being met head on. In addition numerous sea kayakers have lost their dignity over the years as they have struggled in and out of the ocean cockpit and I don't think that it is just old age which is encouraging paddlers into kayaks with larger cockpits.

A rather grainy scanned photograph of my Nordkapp going around Nordkapp on a beautifully calm day in August 1986.

Two Nordkapp HM's at St Brelades. The red one is the same craft that was pictured 23 years earlier off northern Norway.

What is certain about the Nordkapp HM is that it will always a be a sea kayak that attracts admiring looks from both experienced kayakers and non paddlers.

Sit on Top Kayaking

Some sea kayakers have adopted a somewhat superior attitude when it comes to Sit on Top kayaks but in the right conditions they are an ideal craft for exploring a wide range of coastlines. The north west corner of Jersey is fully exposed to the power of the Atlantic swell, the nearest land to the west is Newfoundland and so the days when it is possible to paddle in close to the cliffs are few and far between. The settled weather of the last few days has allowed paddlers to explore this dramatic section of the Jersey coast.

Heading north at the base of the granite cliffs. Days when the sea is this calm are rare indeed.

The remains of the German guns which were thrown over the cliff top as the end of the Second World War.
Scenery like this will set the pulse racing of any rock climbers

The large cliff to the south of Grosnez. This is possibly the largest area of rock in Jersey. This north facing cliff only receives sunlight for a few hours each evening in the weeks closest to the summer solstice. Even at 19.20 some of the cliff was in shadow

Heading south back towards L'Etacq

When the forecast was for calm seas there was no hesitation in heading towards the north west corner of the Island. For these paddlers, who were only on their third time on a sit on top, it was a memorable evening on the water. For sea kayakers heading to Jersey this section of the coast must be towards the top of their tick list.

A Lost Monument

The Ecrehous is one of the great sea kayaking day trips and when accompanied by first time visitors I have always pointed out the bullet holes in one of the chimneys. I was told by the museums education officer that these were the result of German bombers heading for Jersey on the 28th June 1940 and testing their weapons, prior to attacking La Rocque Harbour on the south east corner of the island. Clearly this was a significant historical monument.

A recent visit to the Ecrehous revealed that the chimney, which was of such significance, had disappeared when the hut was being re-roofed. Its former position marked by a pole.

The loss of this interesting historical artefact is a real shame and I will have to work on new stories for when I visit the reef in future. Hopefully though it is just being stored somewhere and will re-appear in the future in all its glory.

6 Fathers and 1 Mother

Sunday morning sessions have been run by the Jersey Canoe Club for nearly 35 years and Fathers Day is no exception. A beautiful June morning greeted those members of the Club who headed towards Ouaisne, a delightful beach on the south coast of the Island.

Two hours was all that was required to explore the neighbouring headlands and bays before grabbing a quick pint in the Smugglers Pub before rushing off to family celebrations. The morning reflected the convenience of paddling in Jersey and made us realise how fortunate we are to have sea kayaking of such quality on our doorstep.

Preparing to leave Ouaisne on Father's Day Morning

Chris between Pt Le Fret and Portelet, at the base of some stunning granite cliffs.

Tom coming through the gap at the base of Noirmont. An early 19th Century fortification it is now a lighthouse, marking the western approaches to the main port at St Helier.

Alex approaching St Aubin's Fort. A 16th Century military fortification it is now used as an outdoor centre by youth groups.

Mo heading south from Belcroute. This is one of the few areas around the island where trees reach towards the shore and is always therefore a delight to paddle. Interestingly the tidal streams in this area flow south for 9 hours out of every 12.

Nicky heading south towards Noirmont. The German fortifications are visible on the cliff behind, evidence of the islands 20th century history.