Thoughts of sunnier days - Comino

Another weekend with a less than favourable forecast, force 6 westerlies blowing through frequent rain showers is not an encouraging scenario on a Sunday morning.  It does allow time to reflect though on some of the paddles that I have been fortunate enough to undertake this year.

One destination which has been particularly memorable is the small island of Comino, situated midway between Gozo and Malta.  Only covering about 3.5 square kilometres in area it is a relatively straightforward paddle from Gozo, the crossing from Hondoq is less than 1 nautical mile.

Many people head to, and probably stay around the Blue Lagoon, but if that is all they do they are missing out on some interesting kayaking and exploration.

During the summer months it isn't possible to kayak through the Blue Lagoon so it is necessary to approach that section of coast from the west which does  allow the opportunity to explore the numerous caves and inlets in that area.  There is a cave running through the small island of Cominotto, which does give access to the Blue Lagoon.  On one occasion we moored the kayaks outside the cave and swam in to the small sandy beach.

In the area around the Blue Lagoon there are numerous caves, arches and stacks waiting to be explored but you are going to have to share the experience with the numerous other watercraft particularly during the warmer summer months.  There is some superb diving in this area including on the wreck of P31, a former East German  patrol boat, which also saw service with the Maltese armed services.  It was sunk on the 25th August 2009, it's location makes by yellow buoys in the centre of the bay

The most obvious building on the island is probably Santa Maria (St Mary's) Tower, in the south west of the Island.  Built in in 1618 it overlooks the channel towards Malta.  The walls are 6 metres thick and 12 metres high, it is a very substantial structure.  The south west of Comino is marked by a low narrow peninsula, the end of which is marked by a small lighthouse.

The south coast has limited landing places but increasingly high cliffs until the south east corner is reached, close to the Redoubt.  This was built in 1716 to help protect the South Comino Channel.  It was allowed to fall into really poor condition but was restored in 1996.

The east coast of Comino consists of high cliffs, with one area in particular looking like an elephant, the north east corner is marked by some great caves and narrow channels, many of which are only accessible by kayak.

Santa Marija Bay is normally a convenient place for lunch, pleasant swimming off the sandy beach just to the west of the slip or the opportunity to wander off to the east coast where there are some jumping spots and good caves to explore.

During the winter months Comino has an official population of 4, which is swelled considerably during the summer months as the visitors arrive from both Malta and Gozo.  Generally though, it is possible to miss the crowds when paddling, by avoiding the area around the Blue Lagoon and exploring the rest of the coastline of this delightful Mediterranean Island.

 Preparing to leave Hondoq, in common with so many slipways in the area it was incredibly slippy.

 Some of the many caves in the area just to the south of Blue Lagoon

Looking down on P31 with air bubbles from divers rising to the surface.  The location of the wreck is marked by a yellow buoy.

 Rounding the south west corner.  Hardly a memorable lighthouse.

One of the few places on the south coast where it is easy to land.  The group are busy doing a navigation exercise on a BCU course.

Some delightful rock architecture on the south coast.

 

Just about to round the south east corner of Comino.  The Redoubt is just visible above the kayakers. 

A narrow passage on the north coast, just prior to crossing back to Gozo.

If you want to avoid the crowds, it is probably best not to visit the Blue Lagoon during to tourist season.

Some more aerial photographs

It has been said that the best in-flight entertainment system is the window seat. I can never understand the person who selects the aisle seat when there is the option of observing the world passing by.
Below is a further selection of some interesting sea kayaking destinations seen out of the aircraft window.  Whenever I get in an aircraft it always stimulates ideas of where else to go paddling.  The to do list continues to grow.

 Final approach in Barcelona.  Didn't manage to get any sea kayaking in although some of the coast looked pretty interesting from a paddling perspective.

 Climbing out from Malta.  Gozo on the left and Comino in the middle are clearly visible.  There is some great kayaking to be had in the Maltese archipelago.

 Newhaven, Sussex.  A few minutes after take off from Gatwick.  It has been a few years since I paddled this stretch of the English coast.

 Superb meanders on the River Seine. 

 Flying into clouds like these, over Dijon in France means that you are in for a bumpy ride.  We were at 32,000 feet and some of the clouds were towering above us.

 Final approach into Malta.  A great sunset and you know that the kayaking is likely to be superb in the morning.

 Poole Harbour in Dorset.  Heading home after a weekend paddling in Swanage, which is just off the picture to the left.  Always good to see where you have been

Some more aerial shots

It has been a while since I posted some aerial shots but in the last week I have passed over some interesting kayaking destinations, although the visibility hasn't always been as good as I had hoped for.

Flying north from Jersey, just after sunset.  The silhouettes of the other Channel Islands, Sark, Herm, Jethou and Guernsey are clearly visible.  We will be paddling around all these islands at some time in the next 8 weeks.

Alderney, the most northerly of the Channel Islands.  The line of small islands and rocks stretching west are clearly visible.  Unfortunately I am not certain that time will allow for the northern isle this year.

St Paul's Bay, Malta.  Although we didn't get an opportunity to paddle on Malta, it looked great and Gozo nearby was excellent.

North western Sicily.  We were cruising at 38,000 feet so those waves breaking on the shoreline are quite substantial.  

 The south coast of France and northern Italy.  I first paddled along this section of coast in the summer of 1972.  I am sure the amount of building along the coast has increased significantly since but it remains on my list of places to return to.

 Heading south across the English Channel the Dorset coast stretching west.  The view of Swanage Bay brought back good memories of paddling in this area with Portsmouth and District Canoe Club last October.

 The northern tip of Alderney, the large spring tide was running south, causing some significant areas of rough water.  We were flying at 17,000 feet so that is some tide race.

Comino from Gozo

As sea kayakers we are fortunate to visit some impressive locations but every now and again we paddle somewhere which exceeds all our expectations and today was one of those days.  We crossed to Comino a small island between Gozo and Malta and the site of one of the most photogenic locations in the Maltese archipelago, the Blue Lagoon.  The whole coastline is appealing to sea kayakers with its complex cave systems, delightful beaches and memorable scenery.  Thanks again to Sea Kayak Malta and Gozo Adventures.

Leaving from Hondoq Bay, the building above the yellow kayak is a reverse osmosis plant which turns salt water into drinking water.  The south and east of England could do with a few of those at the moment to alleviate the drought problems.

Heading out across the North Comino Channel, it was just under 1 nm wide at this point.  Our target was St Mary's Tower, just above the kayakers head.  It was built by the Knights of St John in 1618 and restored in 2004, without doubt the most visible building on the island.

 The photogenic Blue Lagoon, the numerous post cards for sale on Malta and Gozo fail to do this sheltered bay justice.

 The western edge of the lagoon is defined by a number of small islands, including Cominotto.

 It is not just crystal clear water which attracts the kayaker but the cliffs, arches

 and caves.

Lantern Point Lighthouse, on the south west corner of Comino.  If anybody ever writes the book "Great Lighthouses of Gozo" it will be a very thin volume.

 Paddling along the south coast we passed St Mary's Battery which was built in 1715 to protect the South Comino Channel.  It was equipped with two 24 pounder and four 6 pounder cannon.

 Turning onto the east coast exposed us to a rolling easterly swell which unfortunately prevented us exploring the caves along this section of the island.

Lunch was a relaxing affair in the warm April sun of Santa Marija Bay.  Gozo was just a short paddle away across the channel.

 All too soon it was time to head back to Gozo, but I am certain that I will return.

North West Gozo

Today was a sea kayaking first for me, I was unable to paddle due to my broken but conditions were not too challenging so Nicky agreed to ferry me around in regal splendor. I was able to sit in the front seat of a double as we headed out from the Inland Sea, on the north west coast of Gozo.  A remarkable tunnel, through which small boats, ferry considerable numbers of tourists.

Once we were on the outside of the tunnel a stunning section of coastline was revealed with miles of vertical cliffs producing a sea kayaking playground  of significant quality.  Xavier and Mark from Sea Kayak Malta were the enthusiastic guides of our multi-national group.

The only challenge I face now is convincing Nicky that she will be prepared to ferry me around for another day!

 Kayaks ready for departure on the beach of the Inland Sea.

 The entrance into the 75 metre tunnel which linked the Inland Sea with the more exposed Mediterranean.  Getting in and out was a matter of coinciding your passage with a lull in the small fishing boats.

 

 The outer coast was particularly dramatic with several miles of vertical cliffs, at no point would it be possible to leave the water.  Fortunately we were sheltered from the increasing south easterly wind.

 This rope was a surprising find.  Fisherman haul their pots up a significant cliff face.  You must be truly committed to harvesting the riches of the sea if you are prepared to fish in this fashion.

 This is the cliff face that the fishing line was coming down.  Hauling a pot up this cliff must require significant muscle power.

 The most common source of sea life that we encountered were these jelly fish.  There were hundreds of them with particularly large concentrations close to the entrances of caves.  Apparently they are able to deliver quite a nasty sting.  

 This arch was just one of a number of significant physical features along this section of coast.  Today conditions were ideal for detailed exploration of the coast.

Inside the caves the colours were particularly striking.

 Looking out from one of the caves it was clear that the wind had dropped producing ideal conditions as we headed back for lunch at the Inland Sea.

 

 The magnificent cliffs of the north west coast of Gozo.