Daily Picture - 64

I was going to post a picture of St Ouen's Bay this evening, looking great in the late evening sunshine until I came across the news that Audrey Sutherland, author of "Paddling Hawaii" and "Paddling My Own Canoe" had sadly passed away on the 23rd February at the age of 93.

She embarked on wilderness journeys starting in 1962, when she swam along the northern shore of   Molokai.  She moved up market a few years later when she started to explore the coasts of Hawaii,  British Columbia and Alaska in a small inflatable kayak.  Paddling thousands of miles on exploratory journeys.  Her most recent book, describing her travels in Alaska is "Paddling North".

She was a truly amazing paddler, pushing the boundaries of exploratory kayaking, defining the limits of what is possible with a minimum of equipment but a major sense of adventure.

As sea kayakers we often dream of where we would like to paddle but Audrey was living proof of what was possible if you had the vision and the enthusiasm.

Paddling to Jerusalem

A mid-life crisis can be handled in different ways, some people change their careers, others take a lover whilst David Aaronovitch decided to paddle around Britain.  Not an easy objective for somebody whose previous paddling experience was limited to a none to positive introduction to the sport on the Bedfordshire Ouse over Easter 1966.        
The decision to paddle around England came to him whilst paddling a large green plastic canoe across a lake at Center Parc’s.  Possibly not the most stimulating environment but one which proved inspiring.  The description of David Aaronovitch is not one which inspires confidence as an able outdoors person.  His observations on the cliental of gyms are particularly wry.  If his description of the kayaking tuition he received is accurate then the future of the sport is not on very secure ground.
Against almost universal advice he decided to embark upon the journey and a route through the heart of England evolved.  He chose the Pyranha Orca sea kayak as his craft and the route linked the canals and major river systems of England.  The Thames, Trent and Severn plus the Grand Union, Leeds – Liverpool and Shropshire Union Canals provided the liquid highways.
To most paddlers this would appear to be a particularly drab choice of route if compared to more dramatic popular sea kayaking regions.  Numerous writers, from Defoe onwards, have for hundreds of year described the journeys they have undertaken though the heart of England.  Some have proved to be accurate observers of the state of the country and Aaronovitch is one of these.
Heading through some of the major cities of industrial England, by kayak, is not everybody’s idea of a classic paddle.  What it does allow though is a different perspective on life in Britain at the end of the 20^th century.  He is looking at England through the backdoor, roads and footpaths tend to show the front of buildings, canals the rear.
His “camp” on the first night of the journey was the Hotel Ibis near Heathrow Airport, not on the main sea kayaking route, not a particularly auspicious start.  Another bleak moment was his arrival in Burnley, not many hotels in the world would have the temerity to place the following sign above a bed; “We respectfully request that you do not iron anything on the carpet, as it will melt.”
In contrast to these somewhat depressing descriptions there are numerous positive encounters.  Unfortunately his wrists didn’t last the pace and he was forced to abandon his paddle close to Gloucester and he had to finish his journey to the Millennium Dome at Greenwich on foot, following the tow path of the Thames as opposed to benefiting from the rivers free ride as it heads towards the sea.
Overall this is an optimistic book and it offers hope for all of us who will never see the younger side of 40 again.  In contrast to so many sea kayaking books which are written by paddlers hoping to be writers, this is a book which is written by a writer who is becoming a paddler. It is well written, informative and amusing.  He didn’t really get to paddle on the sea but the use of sea kayaks doesn’t have to be restricted to the salt water environment.  There are many miles of inland waters which are suitable for sea kayaks and this book will help open your eyes to some of the possibilities which exist.  A delightful book, well worth searching out.  

A Winter's Paddle

I am an avid reader and collector of books related to sea kayaking and canoeing having read literally hundreds over the years.  When I have finished a book I can normally imagine myself taking part in a similar trip and start to mull over the logistics regardless whether it is a canoe trip in northern Canada or a kayaking trip in Europe.
There are very few books which when I put them down I think to myself this isn't for me, this person is clearly operating on a different level to myself and to most other paddlers.  Paul Caffyn's "The Dreamtime Voyage" is one such title and it is joined by "A Winter's Paddle".  Tara is clearly a highly motivated, technically competent paddler with a flowing descriptive writing style.  I read significant portions of the book each time I picked it up, eager to know what was going to happen next.
The winter circumnavigation of South Island New Zealand is a huge achievement but to complete some of the more committing sections solo takes the paddle onto a completely different level.
I did wander at times why they exposed themselves to such a significant challenge, the surf landings and the long periods of being storm bound all added up to create a trip that wasn't for me but  incredible respect  to Tara for seeing it through.
If you are a sea kayaker you will enjoy this book, partly because you will have some insight into the technical challenges it presented but also because of the way it describes the routine of life whilst on a long sea kayaking trip.  I don't think it will be encouraging many people though, to pack their bags and follow in their wake.
The book is available from Tara Mulvany and is well worth getting hold of.

North to Athabasca

In the summer of 2000 I took a group of young people from Jersey to paddle the Allagash Wilderness Waterway in northern Maine.  I remember sitting on the shore of one of the lakes watching a float plane come into land and drop off a solo paddler.  I made a note in my journal to the effect on the 23rd June.  Several years later I came across a book "Canoe Trip" by David Curran, in which he  describes his solo trip down the Allagash after having been dropped off on Umsaskis Lake on the 23rd  June 2000.  Although we were clearly on the river at the same time, apart from that distant view I have no recollection of seeing a solo paddler again on that trip.
I thoroughly enjoyed the book so was pleased when towards the end of last year I came across a second book by the same author, "North to Athabasca".  Once I sat down to read the book at the end of last week I quickly became  hooked and finished it in a couple of days.  With his friend Walter they decide to paddle a river, significantly more challenging than the Allagash.  Flying north into Saskatchewan their aim was to paddle the MacFarlane River, a rarely paddled river which flows into Lake Athabasca.
Actually getting to the launch site was a major undertaking and once on the river they were effectively in their own, although as is the case with many remote trips today they did carry a satellite phone.
The river flows through a pristine wilderness with all the challenges that traveling through such an area entails.  Through David's writing we gain a flavour of what they experienced, ranging from the wildlife encountered to the physical challenges involved in paddling in the Canadian north.  They were clearly at home in such an area but I do have to say that I questioned their behaviour with one particular bear, if it had been me I would have been paddling flat out in the opposite direction.
At the end of the book, besides thinking I would always take a GPS with me, my overall feeling was one of envy.
It has been nearly 15 years since I last did a long canoe trip and reading "North to Athabasca" made me realise that it has been too long.  It is an easy book to read, the ideal scenario would be on an aircraft en route to a paddling trip.  Just be prepared to start planning your own adventures.

May We Rant and Roar No More

Written by Michael Paul Samson and published in 2004 by “walktheline” sustainability project.

I received my copy of this book towards the end of September last year, which was an opportune time as I had just finished reading one book and was in need of some new stimulation.  I read some of the blurb on the back cover:

“I couldn’t put it down until I had finished it completely”

“I can’t recall ever reading anything else like it”

This seemed like my kind of book a relatively quick read and then onto the next volume but several months on and I am only just writing the review.  This is not due to laziness on my part but a reflection of the speed at which I read the book.  I was keen to read it quicker but the richness of the language and the description of the journey slowed me down.  This is a book to savour, not to rush through and then discard.  It is also much more than a sea kayaking book, it is a social commentary on a way of life and a community that is fast disappearing, largely as a result of mans insatiable greed with little thought to the environmental consequences.  He undertook the circumnavigation in 1997 and I am left wandering what further changes there have been in the intervening years.
This is also a book about sea kayaking though.  Newfoundland is big, just take a note next time you are crossing the Atlantic how long it takes to fly over the Province.  And it’s empty, if there are no clouds try to discern any settlements, or other signs of human activity.  There aren’t that many.  Michael paddled around the island but it was no simple journey, there are highly descriptive passages of the strong winds and high seas that he encountered.  
The most outstanding passage, for me though, is when a large whale accompanies him whilst paddling towards a significant headland and he encounters a group of feeding humpback whales.  This has to be one of the most memorable pieces of writing in almost any sea kayaking book that I have come across.
Although the book is written in the form of a chronological log it avoids the trap of falling into a simple description of food eaten, miles paddled and places camped, as so many books do.  Yes those facts are covered but we are introduced to the diverse range of characters who inhabit the more remote corners of the island.  Conversations are written in the style of Newfoundland accent, which is a bit of a challenge to the untrained eye at first but it gradually becomes easier.
If you are interested in sea kayaking, and I assume you are reading this blog then this is a book for you.  Read it and become absorbed in a journey through a human and physical landscape which is in danger of disappearing.
The only thing that I couldn't figure out is whether the title has its origins in the song "Rant and Roar", which I have heard performed by Newfoundland band Great Big Sea.

This is not an easy book to come by, it is available from Michael at www.walktheline.ca, and is well worth the effort searching out a copy.

Barbed Wire and Babushkas

This isn’t about sea kayaking on the sea but it is about using sea kayaks for a substantial journey down one of the world’s longest rivers, the Amur.  It is likely that you will never have heard of this river but then again neither had the author prior to his quest to discover a river which would offer adventure as he paddled from its source to the sea.

4,400 kilometres long it rises in the remote highlands of Mongolia and enters the Pacific Ocean just to the south of Vladivostik and along the way flows through some of the most politically sensitive areas in the world.  Clearly paddling in such an area poses significant logistically nightmares, including having to navigate through huge quantities of red tape.

Just getting to the source of the river was an epic in itself but that was just the start of an entertaining adventure.  Although they passed through huge tracts of wilderness it was their visits to towns and the individuals that they met which provide the substance of the book.  This isn’t about hair-raising descents of monstrous rapids but often about being able to survive drinking prodigious quantities of vodka with a variety of Russians who had clearly had more practice than them.

It is also a description of a country, which is experiencing huge economic upheaval and perhaps, according to a number of its inhabitants not always for the better.  There was clearly a division between the Chinese to the south and the Russians to the north.  The former it appears were far eager to exploit the economic opportunities.    It is interesting to see though that even the poorest were often willing to share their food with out two intrepid paddlers, at times to their embarrassment.  It was as if refusal was likely to offend. 

They did paddle 4,400 kilometres in 107 days, which is a significant achievement but that is not the whole story. Grogan is an entertaining writer who has woven a tale of kayaking with encounters with gun slinging army officers, a New Zealand forestry worker, young Russian girls eager to practice their English and a Mongolian cobbler, to mention a few of the characters, into an enjoyable read.

They did receive financial support from the Winston Churchill Memorial Trust, which assisted them greatly so if this book triggers something then take a look at their web site, applications for 2013 open in May 2012.

So if you are heading away on holiday this year and require some in-flight reading or just staying at home and haven’t a book to read this one comes highly recommended.  I managed to read my copy in the time that it took to travel from Jersey to Malta.  I must admit that I was slightly disappointed when I finished, as it was one of the more enjoyable paddling books that I have read for some time.

(It is presently available on Amazon for the bargain price of £0.01 plus postage , or £0.99 on eBay so it is currently excellent value)

Barbed Wire and Babushkas by Paul Grogan

Published 2005 by Virgin Books

Paperback

ISBN 0-7535-0938-5

Price £7.99

In Irish Waterways

I found this quite an interesting book both from a paddling perspective and as a commentary on the way that society has changed over the last 50 or so years.  This book doesn’t fall into the category of sea kayaking but could be described as kayak touring.  The book describes a number of journeys undertaken the author between 1939 and 1949 on the inland waterways of Ireland.  The majority lasted about two weeks and they paint a picture of a country that no longer exists.

A double folding kayak was used to explore the classic waterways of the Shannon, Liffey and Corrib Lakes to mention three.  The preferred choice of transport to access the rivers were the train, how much more challenging would that be today.  What was interesting was the equipment that they carried, how many paddlers today carry a bow and arrow?  For some who are easily offended they might be shocked to read the description of the author shooting a Coot and then spending the day roasting the bird on a spit.  His opinion was that they were particularly tough!  They also hunted badgers using the bow and arrow and decided that they need stronger arrows because of the way that they broke.  Activities, which clearly no one today would admit too let alone put into print.

Disregarding hunting activities this is a delightful book which is full of adventures, involving weirs, bulls, bad weather, swans etc.  Many of the same problems, which affect paddlers today.  It would be a challenge though to paddle into a village in Europe today where there was no bread, meat or tinned but that was the situation, which existed in Drumsna, as they paddled the Shannon.

This is a book about change.  Change within society, where it is no longer acceptable to go around eating Coots.  But it is also a book about continuity.  The fact that so many areas of the waterways remain unchanged, as we paddle our craft we see a physical landscape, which has remained largely the same for hundreds of years.  This provides us with a link of generations of earlier paddlers.  Paddling these rivers today many of the views and experiences will be the same.  What has changed though is the equipment and clothing.  There is a fascinating collection of photographs in the book depicting innocence and freedom, which has been lost for many in the modern world.

So forget about being a sea kayaking purist, search out a copy of “In Irish Waterways” and immerse yourself in the Ireland of 60 years ago.

By Edward O’Regan

Published 2005 by Currach Press

Paperback 149 pages

ISBN 1-85607-915-5

Sea Kayaking Books

I have spent some time producing a comprehensive list of the sea kayaking, and other paddling books, which are in my collection and so it is interesting to consider which books I would recommend to people who are interested in the development of our sport.  This is my selection of 5 books which I consider to be essential reading.  Please feel free to disagree and suggest alternatives:

Sea Canoeing by Derek Hutchinson 1976: For me this was a book that inspired a generation of paddlers and it was one of the first titles which was specifically about the aspects of canoeing and kayaking that I was interested in.  Derek is recognized by many as the father of modern sea kayaking due to his ground breaking trips and kayak designs.  This book gave me information on navigation, surfing etc.  There have been many more books published since but this was the first of its type.

The Dreamtime Voyage by Paul Caffyn 1994:  This is the definitive expedition book.  I had read all of Paul Caffyn's previous books and although they described significant achievements none of them grabbed the readers like the circumnavigation of Australia.  It is testimony to one of the finest sea kayaking achievements of all time.

Argonauts of the Western Isles by Robin Lloyd-Jones 1989: This book could almost have been written by anyone of us, if we were accomplished authors.  It is adventures in local waters, sea kayaking off the west coast of Scotland with friends.  The book was updated several years ago and is still a worthy read.

 Water and Sky by Alan Kesselheim 1989: This follows the journey along the Athabsca by Kessleheim and his wife.  Sub-titled "Reflections of a Northern Year" the writing captures the hardships and delights of living in the far north.  In addition the conflicts between the modern world and traditional native communities are examined.  This is a delightful book which goes far beyond the paddling.

Sea Kayaking by John Dowd 1981:  This was quite a controversial book in the UK when it was published due to some of the more extreme comments.  I bought my copy at a Crystal Palace Canoe Exhibition in the early 1980's and quickly went through the book from cover to cover several times.  There was so much in here that wasn't in Derek's book, they complemented each other nicely.  It has been updated several times, I think that I have all the editions, but I still like dipping into the first one.

It is surprising how many sea kayaking books are now available, it is just a matter of deciding which are the more interesting, informative etc.

A-Z of Sea Kayaking

Many thanks to everybody who has purchased a copy of my e book "The A-Z of Sea Kayaking" from Amazon in the UK or from amazon.com.  It comes out at nearly 300 pages long and I wrote it initially for the Kindle but it can be read on a variety of other devices if you download the Kindle App.

I have attempted to put as much information as possible in the book about topics as varied as personalities, skills, history, equipment etc.

I know that there is something very satisfying about having a book in your hands but the e book format enables the books to be sold for less and so it is possible to buy titles which you may not have considered otherwise.

It is also a very convenient format whilst away on longer trips.  Last year we did a two week paddle through the Greek islands and on my Kindle I was able to have my reading books, the Sailing Directions, a tourist guide, ferry timetables, copies of maps and charts plus some other items all on one device smaller than a paperback book.  Ideal when space is at a premium.

Canoeing and Kayaking Books

I have finally completed cataloging my paddling book collection as I was finding it more and more difficult to keep track of the titles I already owned so deciding whether to buy a particular title when it became available was a real challenge.   My final tally was 539 titles, the challenge now is to ensure that it is kept up to date as each new title arrives through the door.

It has proved to be a fascinating exercise and I re-discovered many kayaking gems which I had read years ago but which had slipped from my memory over the years.  In particular I have been motivated to read again many of the books which describe canoeing on the rivers of North America, some from the early part of the 20th century whilst others are more recent. One of my favourite paddling books of all time must be "Water and Sky" by Alan Kesselheim, it is well worth seeking out a copy.
Although it is not a definite bibliography of canoeing and kayaking it is a fairly comprehensive list so if anybody would like a copy, perhaps as a starting point for their own collection, then please get in touch and I will forward you a copy.

 A selection of sea kayaking titles, most from North American authors, although clearly there are a number by British authors such as Derek Hutchinson.  The sea kayaking titles alone occupy nearly 4 metres of shelf space on their own.

 A few recently acquired titles including a French sea kayaking manual.  The older titles, for example the classic "Canoe in Australia" by Raven Hart, first published in 1948 can often be found in sites such as ebay but regular monitoring is required plus a pre-set budget otherwise you could get really carried away. 

 The glass fronted bookcase for some of the more delicate/valuable titles.  This was a necessary purchase as I ended up with quite a valuable title in 1996 which I wanted to protect.  A first edition of "Northern Lights" by Spencer Chapman, which is signed by the author and inside was the original cutting from The Times of the 7th September 1932 announcing the death of Gino Watkins, whilst kayaking off the east coast of Greenland.

I did tell the BCU about the book, as it was in an antiquarian book sellers in London, and I happened to be at a meeting in Nottingham later the same day.  The BCU declined the offer of this important title but fortunately my wife decided to purchase the book for Christmas for me.

Many people are surprised by the number of paddling books which are available and it is a market which is growing all the time.  It is just another aspect of this hobby of ours.

An early sunset

Its hard to imagine that it was only a few weeks ago that we were still able to paddle after work.  This photograph of Corbiere Lighthouse was taken on the way home last night.  It is only at this time of the year that the sun sets anywhere near the lighthouse, during the summer months it slips below the horizon much further north.
The darker evenings do allow time to catch up on other projects, presently I am updating my canoeing and kayaking book collection.  Its always difficult to remember whether you have a particular title when perusing websites or second hand bookshops.  There are only 7.5 metres of shelving left to catalogue, but I imagine that it will take quite a few hours to complete.
Tonight's distraction is also the fact there is a documentary on BBC 2 at 21.00 on the raid on Bordeaux harbour by Royal Marine commandos, the "Cockleshell Heroes", essential viewing for anybody interested in the history of our sport.