Le Catel de Lecq

Le Catel de Lecq is an iron age hill which dominates the headland to the east of Greve de Lecq, possibly the finest beach for sea kayaking on the north coast of Jersey.  I must have paddled past it hundreds of times, in addition to passing by numerous times on the landward side.  It wasn't until this week though that I made the effort to climb to the summit.

It was well worth visiting it as it is one of the best preserved defensive earthworks on the Island.  In recent months the defenses have been improved with the introduction of a number of very inquisitive Manx four horned sheep, so if visiting ensure that the gate is firmly closed.

The fort seen from close to the road, minus the sheep

 Just a few of the many sheep which were grazing on the slopes and in the surrounding fields.

 Nicky on the way up.

 Looking east from the summit.  Directly below the fort are a number of the more interesting caves to be found on the Island

 Looking down on Greve de Lecq and the coast running west towards Plemont.

 

Nicky on the summit ridge, it was narrower than we imagined.

 Approaching Greve de Lecq from the Paternosters.  Le Catel de Lecq is the distinctive hill above the kayakers.  How many people passing by realize that it is man made?

Jersey Cycle Rides

As the remnants of Hurricane Bertha brushed past the Channel Islands, leaving a showery, blustery airstream in its wake, it was clear that conditions were going to be less than pleasant for a few days. It seemed like a perfect opportunity to get the bikes out and to see something of the interior of the Island as opposed to the coastline. 

What a revelation, we cycled down roads we had never been down before saw hardly any traffic and had a couple or really memorable days.  We followed Route 1 and Route 3, information about the routes is available from Jersey Tourism, but we were pleasantly surprised how clearly signposted they were. 

 Corbiere, with a sea state which isn't typical of August.  Just heading out on Route 1, 40 miles right around the Island

Heading around Petit Port headland, one of a couple of short sections which were off road.

A steady climb out of St Ouen's Bay.  I had never been on this road before.

 We stopped off at Greve de Lecq for breakfast.  It would be great one day if the island authorities put up a sign which encourages you to enjoy the beach.  Everything on these signs is telling you not to do something.

 Hamptonne is in the middle of the Island.  There are exhibits regarding the agricultural heritage of the Island.  Route 3 passes by the entrance.  It is one of a number of properties which are looked after by Jersey Heritage

 The entrance to one of the finest passage graves in Europe, at Hougue Bie.  Another fascinating stopping point on Route 3.

 Another short section of off road, a hidden corner of St John's

 This stone is supposed to be in the centre of Island.  Cycling the other way you would miss this.  It is part of Route 3, which winds its way through the centre of the Island.

 On Route 1 you spend a considerable amount of time wandering around the narrow lanes of St Martin's.  Some of the climbs are pretty steep. 

Mont Orgueil Castle sits overlooking Gorey, on the east coast of the Island.  It is well worth a visit if you are cycling Route 1, it is one of the finest castles anywhere.

Dry suits

Whilst looking through some of my old slides I came across this one, which represents an interesting time in the evolution of modern kayak equipment.

It was taken in November 1982 on the beach at Greve de Lecq in Jersey.  It was an unusually cold day, note the snow on the front of the kayak.  I am the one in the paddling equipment, if you weren't sure.

Wind surfing was becoming popular a number were wearing this new clothing, a dry suit, prior to this evolution the dry suits were very basic items of equipment.  We were fortunate enough to be lent a dry suit 

One concern which was doing the round of the paddling community was that in the event of a capsize, if the dry suit hadn't been vented properly it was likely that the feet would fill with air and the kayaker would be suspended upside down.  My role, no pun intended, in this exercise was to paddle offshore, do a couple of rolls before capsizing and hopefully swimming ashore with my head above water.

As I am writing this 31 years later it is clear that being suspended upside down with your feet full of air was an urban myth.  So based on this rather unscientific experiment we ordered 6 dry suits and 7 months later flew out to Spitsbergen for a 2 month trip.  As far as I am aware we were one of the first sea kayaking trips to use the modern dry suit, an item of equipment, which today is virtually essential for any self respecting sea kayaker. 

 Typical kayaking conditions in NW Spitsbergen, just short of 80 degrees N.

If you are contemplating sea conditions like these a dry suit is pretty essential.

 The sea is frozen just in front of the paddlers, wearing dry suits in conditions like this made life on expedition bearable.  It was a complete revelation to us over 30 years ago.

The plan had been to load the sea kayaks onto the RIB on Saturday morning, head up to Sark,  be dropped off and then picked up on the Sunday evening, allowing two days of kayaking around our sister isle.  Unfortunately the wind forecast for Sunday afternoon was too high for the boat to operate, so on Saturday morning at 06.30 an alternative plan was quickly hatched.  A visit to the Paternosters, off the north coast of Jersey.

 We headed east from Greve de Lecq, exploring a number of the coastal features, including Devil's Hole. It is not that often that it is possible to paddle as far back into the cave but there was no swell at all.

 Once the tide drops at the Paternosters there is a delightful lagoon which offers sheltered landing, although today sea conditions were such that it would have been possible to land just about anywhere.

 Considering it is the middle of May it was a pretty grey day.  Contrast this with our visit in February.  It is hard to believe so many of the group selected dry suits to paddle in.

 Heading out of the lagoon, about an hour before low water, hoping for some reasonably light tidal streams.

 The tide was already moving from left to right, it is just discernable behind Gary and Pete.  It was nothing that a bit of ferry gliding wouldn't compensate for.

 As there was no swell we took advantage to explore the western margins of the reef.  For some of the kayakers, although they had visited the reef many times before this was the first time that conditions had allowed them to paddle through some of the channels.

 Leaving the reef for the north coast of Jersey,  it doesn't get much flatter than this.

 Approaching Greve de Lecq.

 Nicky checking the distance on her GPS, it was just under 8 nautical miles.  Jersey's beaches shouldn't look this bleak in May.

So we didn't make Sark, that is still to be re-arranged, but we did make the most of our disappointment.

Greve de Lecq

Greve de Lecq is one of the most popular sea kayaking venues on Jersey.  The concentration of caves, particularly to the east of the bay is unequaled in on the island.  The only potential issue is at times the size of the swell which can be encountered along this stretch of coast, making exploration of the caves not only impossible but potentially very dangerous.  On warm summer days with no swell though it is difficult to think of anywhere better to be.  One cave after another is revealed and it is possible to paddle over 100 metres into at least two of them, making for a truly memorable paddle.

In addition to coastal exploration Greve de Lecq is the most popular departure point for one of Jersey's offshore reefs, the Paternosters.  Whilst paddling along the coast they will normally be visible, nearly 3 nm to the north.

In common with a number of the islands bays, at the conclusion of the paddle there is somewhere to relax and in the case of Greve de Lecq it is the Moulin de Lecq pub.

Part of the mill dates back to the 12th Century and the Germans used the water wheel to generate power for their search lights, a basic form of hydro electric power.  After a great day on the water though it is an ideal place to stop for a pint and is justifiably popular with members of the Jersey Canoe Club, it is where Committee meetings are held during the winter months.

Greve de Lecq from the air at low water.  The section of coast to the east, towards the top of this picture is riddled with caves.  It is one of the most popular areas for sea kayakers on the island.

 Looking east.  On a warm summers day this is one of the most popular beaches on the island.  Arriving too late in the summer will mean that parking is almost impossible.

 Arriving at Greve de Lecq from the west.  The pier was built in 1872 and partially destroyed in a storm 13 years later.  A small stump is left with the remnants of pier providing some shelter for the fishing boats which are launched off the beach.  In certain conditions the bay provides very challenging surf.

 Looking down on the Octopus Pool, on the eastern edge of the bay.  Generations of young Jersey people have amused themselves by jumping into the obvious rock pool in the middle of the rocks.  Underneath where I was standing there is a superb cave which runs through the headland to the small beach of Val Rouget.  Paddling or scrambling out from the beach it is the cave at the head of the third gully which leads through the headland.  

 One of the main caves along the coast.

If there is any swell around I like to reverse into the caves so it is possible to see if there are any waves heading towards you.

More Jersey Towers

Moving on from La Rocco Tower there are several other towers in St Ouens Bay, one of which conforms to the more tradition design of the Martello Tower.  Lower and squatter than the more numerous Jersey Round Tower.
24 of the 31 towers, which were built, remain around the island and are used for a variety of different functions, some are residential units whilst others are available for hire through Jersey Heritage.  Whatever the use they are put to they provide a fascinating backdrop to some of Jersey's coastal sea kayaking.

Kempt Tower is the only true Martello Tower in Jersey.  Built in 1834 it was an integral part of the St Ouen's Bay coastal defences.  There were 4 other towers between Kempt Tower and La Rocco to the south but these have disappeared.

Protecting the area between Kempt Tower and L'Etacq to the north, Lewis Tower was one of the latest to be built, in 1835.

Ouaisne Tower is one of my favourites, partly because it is isolated from almost any other development to it is possible to appreciate its true splendor.  This picture was taken after it had received a welcome coat of paint.

Noirmont Tower, also called La Tour de Vinde, was completed in 1814 and is now used as a lighthouse to help mark the western approaches to St Helier.  A great tidal race for playing in develops just to the east of the tower on the ebb tide.

The only bay on the north coast which has a tower is Greve de Lecq, which is always a great place to paddle from.  This was one of the earliest towers to be built in 1780 and the defence of the bay was supplemented by the building of the barracks in 1810.  The accommodated up to 250 men and troops were stationed here until the 1920's.

A Gneiss Paddle

Just under 3 miles north of Greve de Lecq lie the Paternosters, a reef which for many sea kayakers offers their first opportunity for heading offshore.  Although the tidal streams can run with surprising speed towards low water the crossing can be reasonably direct and straightforward, which is what we had planned for today.  Leaving just before low water slack and hopefully taking a fairly direct route.

At high water only four summits are left protruding from the swirling waters but at low tide an extensive reef is uncovered.  Great Rock, which is ten metres high and Sharp Rock, four metres high, are the largest rocks and are situated in the middle of the bank.  Our plan was to have a drink and some food on the north side of Great Rock in the weak winter sunshine, taking advantage of a lull in the wind before the possible gales arrived in early evening.

The origin of their name is said to be due to a ship on its way to Sark, in the 16th century, striking one of the rocks and a number of women and children drowning.  As a result it became common practice for fishermen to say a Pater Noster or a prayer as they passed close to the reef.  Although they have two names it is the Paternosters that has been accepted into everyday use.  A more recent ship wreck occurred on the 16th September 1961.  A Dutch owned vessel, the Heron was en route to Portsmouth when it sank, with the loss of 3 lives.  The wreck lies in about 30 metres of water to the south of the reef.

On the beach at Greve de Lecq, ready for departure.  The Paternoster's are visible on the horizon, just over 2.5NM offshore.

 Heading out from Greve de Lecq, the Pats visible on the horizon.  This is one of a number of photos taken using a GoPro.  I used on the setting for one photograph every minute, I kept a few with most in the Trash.

 John the "Commodore" of the Jersey Canoe Club approaching the Pats.  Although it was an impromptu paddle we still had 11 members turn up.  Not bad for a morning when the temperature was below freezing.

 Even closer to the reef.  The white kayak is a late 1970's Anas Acuta which was virtually buried for years but about 18 months ago was dug up, it has been refurbished and is as good as new.

Ideal paddling conditions for the first weekend in February.

The classic approach to the Paternosters, a ferry glide.  The tide was just starting to run from right to left. A well known jump is from near the summit of the main rock.  Conditions were a bit too cold for such activity today.

 I explored the north side of the reef and then threaded my way through some shallow channels.  Other members of the group are visible just above the bow of my kayak.

Looking down from the highest point of the reef.  The rocks are gneiss which is metamorphosed granite, a type of rock which isn't seen anywhere on the main island of Jersey.

 We are about to jump on the tide towards Plemont headland.  Although it was only a neap tide we averaged 5 knots on the 2NM crossing to Plemont headland.

 From this distance it was difficult to distinguish most of the details of the Jersey coastline.

Looking along the coast.  Mainly in the shade but with a few glimpses of the sun through some of the gaps in the cliff top.

Nicky heading along the coast.  We had seen numerous Razorbills along this section of the coast plus some very inquisitive Fulmars.

Landing back at Greve de Lecq, a great morning out followed by a well earned pint in front of the fire at the Moulin de Lecq.