Morbihan

Every year the Jersey Canoe Club arranges a weekend to Morbihan in southern Brittany.  Most years we are blessed with settled conditions and warm temperatures but this wasn't the case this year, particularly on the Saturday.  Continuous rain on the Saturday was accompanied by increasing wind on the Saturday evening, resulting in a couple of the tents becoming damaged.

It didn't stop us getting on the water, both days, it was just that we didn't aim to paddle as far as in previous years. 
Still a thoroughly enjoyable weekend away though.

Our first port of call, in rapidly deteriorating weather was Er Lannic.  The stone circle is thought to be approximately 5,000 years old.  Where else is it possible to paddle so close to such significant historic monuments, whilst playing in significant tidal streams?

 Our plan was to paddle up the river to Auray.  The southerly breeze considerably assisting our progress but also blowing in some very damp conditions.

 It wasn't a day for the best photographs!

 Kayaks on the quayside at Auray  It was pretty miserable and we didn't need much convincing that an afternoon in the bar was far more preferable than 8 miles into a head wind in torrential rain.

 Sunday dawned far brighter, so following a paddle around the islands in the southern part of the Gulf we returned to the play spot near Ile Berder to make the most of the waves which are generated on the flood tide.

Sea Kayak Morbihan 2015

After the pool session last night with the Jersey Canoe Club we headed to the pub as usual for a quick pint and the conversation very quickly turned towards our future trip to Morbihan, on the first weekend in May.  I didn't manage to get there last year but since my first visit in 1984 I have paddled in this sea kayaking mecca numerous times.

It is the combination of strong tidal streams, numerous islands and world class historical sites, which combine to make this area of southern Brittany such a  great kayaking destination.  Roll on May but a quick look at a few photographs whetted the appetite.

 The island of Gavrinis, with the passage tomb clearly visible.  It is believed that it was constructed about 5,500 years ago.  There are great views as you paddle past but to see the ornate carvings inside the tomb it is necessary to travel by boat from Larmor-Baden.

 Sea kayaks on the quayside at Auray.  A delightful paddle up the western side of the Gulf.

 Er Lannic towards low water.  Where else in the world is it possible to paddle through a stone circle.

 Ruth enjoying the sensation of being on the water in Morbihan

 Heading south out of the entrance to the Gulf.  It won't be long to the welcome cool first drink at the campsite bar.  Port Navalo is on the opposite side of the entrance

 The tides are always entertaining.  Nicky is playing on the west coast of Ile aux Moines

 

Larmor-Baden.  Preparations are well under way for the first Greenland rolling competition to be held in Brittany.  We had a superb couple of days judging a large number of Breton paddlers competing in a variety of challenges. 

Morbihan Revisited

It had been 12 months since our last visit, which was probably too long.  Morbihan (which means “Little Sea” in Breton) has to be one of the great paddling areas of Europe.  Don’t expect dramatic scenery and a wilderness experience though.  This is a popular tourist and sailing venue but the combination of world class historical sites, tidal streams reaching 8 knots, a diverse bird population and usually pleasant weather conditions produce a fascinating kayaking area.

The small fishing boat was closing pretty quickly upon us, even though the GPS was registering nearly 8 knots and we were barely paddling.  The narrowing of the channel to the south of Iles Berder and Gavrinis forced the stream to accelerate as it rushed towards the open sea, still nearly 2 miles away.  We were taking advantage of this liquid conveyor belt but clearly the fisherman had other ideas about both our sanity and paddling ability.  The raised, shaking fist and the shouts that we were stupid and likely to die did little to improve the confidence of the more hesitant members of the group.

We were on the final rush towards the open sea at the end of two days of superb paddling.  Although the tidal streams do run fast in the Gulf, with appropriate planning it is possible to harness that power to your own advantage and so enjoy a relatively effort free ride around the inner recesses of the Gulf.  Although many people are put off by stories regarding the power of the tidal runs do not be unduly apprehensive.  Try to arrange your first visit to coincide with neaps, use a detailed chart and be sure of your position at all times.  

Saturday was a leisurely exploration of the islands close to Larmor-Baden.  One ferry glide after another allowed us to access golden sandy beaches, narrow inlets and historical sites.  To me the most fascinating location is the semi-submerged stone circle of Er Lannic, due to sea level rise the circle is largely submerged at high water, where else is it possible to paddle through megalithic monuments?  As the afternoon progressed we jumped onto the ebbing tide and hitched a free ride back to Locmariaquer.

Locmariaquer at dawn.  We had just popped out for croissants, but the sun rise promised a geat day on the water.  This small town, close to the western entrance to the Gulf, is an ideal base for a few days sea kayaking.

Er Lannic, a semi submerged stone circle.  Landing is not possible because this is now a bird reserve but it is an inspirational place to kayak past.  These stones are estimated to be 5,000 years old and have been affected by rising sea levels.  Just to the north tidal streams run in excess of 9 knots!

 

 Gavrinis dominates much of this area of Morbihan but the island is famous because of its important passage grave from the Neolithic era. When it was constructed, c. 3500 BC, the island was still connected to the mainland. Inside the tomb there are some stunning decorated slabs which means that it is one of the most important sites in Europe.  Unfortunately access is only possible using the tour boats from Lamor-Baden.

 

Lamor-Baden viewed from the south.

 

 A typical Morbihan scene.  Most of the land visible in the photograph is on islands.  It is a complex area where accurate navigation is important.

One of the numerous navigation marks in the area, it is important to know your buoyage.  Port Navalo is to the east but we were turning west to land on the small beach we had left a few hours earlier.

This posting was first published in May 2008.