Disko Bay - Day 11

It was a day when we made significant progress south towards Ilulissat.  Initially we experienced significant difficulties because of the density of the ice, the dense ice pack we had seen from the hill the evening before had moved away from the ice front and blocked our route south.  We detoured to the west to follow the coast of Arve Prinsens Ejland, having lunch on some delightful slabs before crossing back to the main coastline and continuing our journey south.

John entering the ice.  It became so thick that it blocked our progress towards the opposite shore.

The eastern shore of Arve Prinsens Ejland was relatively ice free, allowing some reasonably quick progress south.

A great lunch spot and it was clear that our crossing to the far headland was going to be relatively easy.

The settled conditions encouraged Alex and Toby to take leave of their senses.  The ice which had blocked our progress earlier in the day was still visible to the north.

The perfect lunch spot.

Sadly evidence of how fragile the environment is often visible.  16 years later some thoughtless scratching in the lichen is still clearly visible.

After lunch the slight northerly wind aided our crossing of Ata Sund and we were soon heading south along the Greenland shore.

Although impressive by European standards the cliffs were not as tall as those slightly further north.  These were "only" 600 metres high.

Approaching the campsite for the evening.  This was somewhere we had used before and knew that there was an easy landing and a great water supply.  It was probably when we reached here that we started to think about the finish of the trip.

Disko Bay - Day 10

Today's target was very simple, paddle around the spectacular island, Qeqertakavsak, and then find somewhere to camp before we turned south towards Ilulissat.  I had looked longingly at this island over the years, convinced that it would be a memorable paddle and I wasn't disappointed.

 It was in perfect conditions that we crossed from the inlet at Anoritoq towards the island of Qeqertakavsak

 Marcus passing some bergs in almost perfect conditions.

 The island of Qeqertakavsak lies ahead and to the left, its north coast looked particularly dramatic.

 Heading along the north shore.

Lunch was in a small bay on Arve Prinsens Ejland.  The slabs on the opposite side of the bay provided a delightful place for a quick after lunch sleep, whilst the stream allowed us to top up water bottles.

 There wasn't much ice around but most of the time there were several glaciers visible in the distance.

 Nicky paddling down the east coast of Igdluluarssuit-nunatat.  A small island with a big name that we had camped on before.  This evening we selected a small bay close to the southern tip, somewhere we hadn't camped before.

In the evening we walked up to the small summit on the southern tip of the island.  There were good views towards a couple of glaciers, including the one close to Eqi.  Little did we realize that the ice we could see here was going to cause quite a few problems the following morning.

Disko Bay - Day 9

This was to be a day of significant ice ending with a bug free camp and a swim.  We decided to head towards the glaciers at the head of Torssukatak, even though the weather was decidedly unfavourable.  As we headed east though the clouds started to rise, revealing to the tops of the mountains and allowing the sun to break through.

Within less than 2 hours we were paddling in perfect sunshine but an increasing amount of ice.  The way forward wasn't always obvious and we were concerned about the consequences of an increase in wind speed.  The ice was already starting to move with an alarming frequency and we didn't relish getting trapped.

At lunch time we decided that we were close enough to the ice front so were looking for a route south, across the fjord.  We climbed a small hill for a better view but it wasn't good news, there appeared to be no way through the ice, which was backed up when we tried to cross to the south.  Ice floes and smaller pieces of ice blocked our path and even with the advantage of height, from standing on a berg, no route was visible.

We retraced our route and headed slightly west before trying the crossing again.  This time entering the ice had a more positive feel and within about 30 minutes we were through to more open water and heading towards our camp for the night, on the south shore of Anoritoq.  This was a really special place, the sun remained warm, encouraging us to have a quick swim and we were able to sit for hours watching the Arctic sky without the inconvenience of insects.

An almost perfect end to an almost perfect day.

It wasn't a particularly inspiring day as we headed away from the camp, low cloud obscured the tops and the headland blocked the view towards the ice cap.

The clouds gradually lifted whilst the ice cap came into view.  The glacier coming down to sea level is clearly visible to the right of Nicky.

The light, ice and water combined to create some pretty memorable views.

 Another day in paradise.

 Alex in the ice, it was at times like this that you were please that we had pretty robust equipment.  We all used Werner paddles and had Rainbow Laser kayaks.  Both items of equipment were more than up to the task.

 The ice continued to increase in density until our way forward was blocked and there was nothing left to do but to retrace our paddle strokes and look for another route.

At one point I climbed out on a berg to look for a route through the ice but all progress was impossible, but it was fun looking.

 It doesn't matter how many times you have been out kayaking in Jersey nothing prepares you for situations like this.

 We had identified this bay as a suitable campsite but rather than paddle into the rear of the bay we camped on the southern headland.  There was just enough breeze to produce an insect free evening.

 There were some very large ice bergs around so that evening we made sure that we lifted the kayaks far enough above the high water mark to be free of problems created by rolling bergs.

Disko Bay - Day 8

The sunshine of late yesterday afternoon continued into the following morning, so we were relaxed group of kayakers who launched onto a relatively calm sea.  The large bergs, which dominate this section of Northern Disko Bay, dictated our route, avoiding the risk of being too close to calving bergs.

The scenery was spectacular, to our left were the mountains of the Nuassuaq Peninsula whilst to our right Disko Island was clearly visible at last.  As we headed east the wind dropped and the temperature appeared to rise.  Lunch was a leisurely affair, with dry suit tops removed, whilst eating, for the first time on the trip.

The afternoon carried on in a similarly relaxed manner, delightful paddling past some quite large bergs with a stunning mountain backdrop.  It was one of those days which makes you you realize why you will return to Greenland to paddle again, at some point in the future.

John close to Savik.  The mountains behind are where we walked the previous day.

Nicky crossing in front of Saputit.  The mountain in the distance is a classic pyramidal peak, it was almost shouting out "climb me".

Leaving the large bergs which dominate the coast near Saqqaq behind.  The twin peaks on the right are a distinctive landmark from miles around, indicating the location of Saqqaq.

It started it off calm and then the wind dropped.  Disko Island is the landmass behind.

 Jim slicing the bread for lunch, a really important job.  His precision cutting meant that it was fair for everyone.

 The warmer weather and bright sunshine encourage some after lunch exploring, and we discovered the base of an old hut.

 Crossing the bay close to Qeqertaq, there were a number of reasonably large bergs, which we tried to avoid getting too close to.

 Approaching the headland at Nugaq, the land behind rises to over 700 metres, pretty much straight out of the sea.

 Collecting water from the small stream close to Nugaq.  Part of the daily routine if we weren't sure where we would be camping and needed to make sure that we had enough liquid.

The white on the cliffs is a Kittiwake colony, there were thousands of these delightful gulls.

These slabs rose out of the water for over 2,000 feet.  A superb last mile or so at the end of a great day.

Disko Bay - Day 7

Today was to be our only non-paddling day of the whole trip, and although it would have been possible to go on the water our thoughts were inland.  On previous visits we had seen a glacier at the head of the valley and we decided to try and reach the ice.

It was rather like walking across the tops of the Scottish mountains although only just above sea level.  Any views were obscured by the low cloud but we knew that there must be something up there.

Gradually the clouds parted and the glacier was revealed tumbling out the mountains.  Sadly we were unable to reach the ice because of the melt water streams but it was a truly memorable location, where we sat and ate our sandwiches. 
We had come to Greenland to go kayaking but this turned out to be one of the more memorable days of the trip.

Once above the initial slope the valley opened before us but the low cloud obscured any potential view, we just knew that there was a glacier there somewhere.

The going wasn't always easy but at least there were no insects to bother us.

Cresting a small ridge we gained our first view of a glacier.

 As we approached the clouds gradually dispersed revealing a superb mountain landscape.

 Progress was halted as meltwater streams carved their way through the moraine but what a view as we had our lunch.

 Just too wide, too fast and too cold to cross.

 By the time we arrived back at the kayaks the sun was shining from a cloudless sky, in complete contrast to the previous 5 days.

 The glacier was just visible from the campsite.

Disko Bay - Day 6

Today was intentionally going to be a short paddling day as we had planned to visit, the largest settlement on the northern shores of Disko Bay, Saqqaq.  With a population of just under 200 the Greenlandic name is a translation from the Danish, "Sunny Side".  This was clearly an inappropriate name on the rather grey and damp day that we explored the village.

The main reason for the village was to top up our food supplies as it was going to be another 12 days before we were able to re-stock.  Getting to the village is always a slight concern because of the number of large bergs, which are attracted to this section of coastline and appear to be breaking up with amazing regularity.  The main worry is getting caught alongside the shore when one of the larger bergs breaks up and sends in significant waves.  No such event today so after just over an hours paddling we landed on some rocks to the east of the village.

The village has given its name to a whole era of Arctic culture, the Saqqaq culture, whose people inhabited this area from around 2,400 BC until 8-400 BC.  The first tools from this people were found during excavations in the area, hence the name.

It was clear whilst we were in the village that the weather was deteriorating and when we started the return paddle it was into a rather persistent and unpleasant drizzle, the start of about 17 hours of precipitation.  As we sat in the tipi though, drinking freshly brewed coffee and eating recently bought cake we didn't feel we could complain too much.  This was the only rain we experienced in 3 weeks in Greenland.                                            

 Kayaks at the campsite about 3 miles east of Saqqaq.  Behind Disko Island is visible, the first time for a couple of days.

Along the shore near Saqqaq there are always a significant number of large bergs, which are in a constant process of break up.  There was quite some concern in the group about the consequences of getting caught out by a wave from a calving berg when close to the shore.

 Saqqaq is quite a pleasant village on the north shore of Disko Bay.  There is a reasonable sized supermarket and a smaller store where we purchased ice creams.  It was summer after all.

 Looking out across Disko Bay

 Getting ready to paddle our fresh supplies back to the camp ground.  The weather was certainly on the turn and it rained for the next 17 hours.  I don't suppose we should complain though as this was the only day it rained whilst we were in Greenland.