Tuesday, September 08, 2015

Disko Bay - Day 5

We were heading to a campsite just to the east of Saqqaq, where we planned to restock with food, but there were 2 options.
1.) a shorter paddle which offered the opportunity to explore an old settlement
2.) a longer paddle bit through more spectacular scenery.
I was really pleased we chose the latter.  We followed the eastern shore of Oqaitsut as it narrowed towards Qamavik.  An increasingly cold headwind encouraged us to stop short of the gap, for a bite to eat and to use the wonders of modern technology and check the weather forecast.  I just happened to know where there was a spot where it was possible to a mobile phone signal.  
I know that it could be argued that it detracts from the wilderness experience but it was also an excuse to chat to the family.  A few minutes later with a forecast, which proved to be remarkably accurate, for the next few days, we passed through the narrows and headed west, with the thought of cakes in Saqqaq tomorrow put a spring in our paddle.
Approaching Qamavik.  Passing through the narrow gap an amazing landscape is revealed.
Looking across to Qeqetaq, a small village in the north of Disko Bay.  We had climbed up here, partly to check out the ice conditions for the next couple of hours and also to get a weather forecast as I knew that there was a mobile phone signal from this small col and fortunately my daughter Lisa was sitting at here computer.
 Toby entering the channel and looking into Torssuatak.  The scale is deceptive as the headland just above his paddle is 702 metres high.  There were distant glimpses of the Greenland ice cap.
Looking along the north side of Oqaitsut, these cliffs are over 500 metres  high, which would pretty much dwarf anything in the UK.  Fortunately the ice wasn't too thick so progress was fairly straightforward.
As in so many areas of Disko Bay there were thousands of Kittiwakes.
 Looking into Saputit with a classic pyramidal peak on the left hand side.  We were also approaching the area to the east of Saqqaq, which seems to attract significant numbers of large ice bergs.
 Bergs like this deserve a huge amount of respect, as we paddled towards our prospective campsite we were accompanied by numerous loud cracks as these bergs broke into smaller pieces.
 The campsite close to the large stream, about 3 miles to the east of Saqqaq.  I first camped here in 2008, it was like returning to an old friend.

No comments: