December Days

The last few months seem to have been mainly occupied with courses so it was a real pleasure at the weekend to just get out on the water for a paddle.  The wind, which had been such a significant feature of the last few weeks had died down to a southerly force 4 so Bonne Nuit on the north of the island was the chosen venue.

We headed east, hoping to find some interesting water off Belle Hougue, but we were a bit late to have any real fun so we carried on to small bay underneath the Club's cottage at Egypt.  A small part of the island with a rich history.  After a paddling a bit further into Bouley Bay it was time to head back. west

 Steff, Janet and Jim underneath the Canoe Club cottage at Egypt.  I wrote about the history of this area in an earlier post.

 Returning west.  The main headland is Belle Hougue, the tallest headland in Jersey.  In the distance is Ronez, the site of a large quarry, where chough's bred in Jersey for the first time in 100 years this summer.

 Rachel and Dean paddling around Belle Hougue.  It was one of those winter days when the light seemed particularly flat.

 Close to Wolf's Caves there was a pretty spectacular blow hole,  Angus was the first to paddle in close but John caught the larger swells.

 My last photo of the day.  There was no cleaning the lens after the soaking it received from this amount of spray.

December's First Paddle

As the rain hammered down on the conservatory roof the easiest option was to roll over for another hour or so in bed but I was committed to heading towards Bouley Bay for the Canoe Club Sunday morning session.  It was only the really keen members who turned up but despite the rain, wind, low cloud etc we had a pretty good time for a bleak Sunday morning in December.

 The tide was running east with a south westerly wind so we turned back towards Bouley Bay and attempted to surf some of the swells.

 John just slipping off the back of a wave.

 In a few places the water was fairly lumpy, all adding to the fun.

 John just missing another wave, but in a reasonably spectacular fashion

 Belle Hougue really is a great place to play, as well as honing paddling skills

 After playing in the waves off Belle Hougue we headed west to Bonne Nuit, one of the small harbours on the north coast of the Island.

 Ruth near Bonne Nuit.  These buildings look as if there at risk of collapse as the cliffs underneath are crumbling away.

 We turned around Cheval Roc, tradition has it that young maidens from the parish were rowed around the rock on midsummers day in the hope of improving fertility.  We are still waiting to see if it had a similar impact on us.

 Heading back towards Belle Hougue, the tallest headland in Jersey.

 

 Passing just in front of Belle Hougue cave.

Another Bonne Nuit Sunday ( Remembrance Sunday)

It seems as if we have launched from Bonne Nuit fairly regularly over the last couple on months, which is not a problem as it is always enjoyable.  On reflection we have headed west every time, again not an issue as there is plenty of entertaining paddling along that stretch of coast.  Today though as is the tradition on Remembrance Day we headed east to land in front of the Jersey Canoe Club cottage at Egypt.

Although we were there to observe two minutes silence we still experienced a surprisingly varied paddle and only covered a total distance of 4 nautical miles.

 Bonne Nuit harbour was the departure point.  The pier was built in 1872 and today provides shelter to a number of local craft.  It is the finishing point for the annual Sark to Jersey Rowing race.

 From further away the harbour its location under the highest land on the Island is apparent.

Nicky passing just to east of La Crete Fort it was built in 1834 for the magnificent sum of £971.  Today it is available for rent from Jersey Heritage.  It sleeps 4 adults and a child under 11, when it was built it provided accommodation for 1 officer and 30 other ranks.

Belle Hougue is one of my favourite headlands and the waves which form seem just right for sea kayak surfing.  Today we had missed the best of the spring tide but still spent an enjoyable 20 minutes playing in the tidal race.

We landed on the small pebble beach in front of Egypt.  There is an interesting history in this area, which has been described elsewhere but today we were coming to pay our respects on Remembrance Sunday.

The 17 members of Jersey Canoe Club paid their respects in front of the monument which, commemorates Operation Hardtack, an allied landing into occupied Jersey at Christmas in 1943.

This nearby bench is inscribed "In appreciation of past and present members of the Special Boat Service"

 We did take time to explore the cottage at Egypt, which is looked after by the Canoe Club and is available to hire by its members.  It is just a great place to wake up and have breakfast, sitting in the warm summer sunshine.

On the way back to Bonne Nuit we did practice rescues in what was left of the moving water off Belle Hougue.  No photographic evidence though as I was busy swimming.  The water was surprisingly warm, despite it being the second week of November.

Bonne Nuit

Whilst writing one of my previous posts on photographs from aircraft windows it became apparent that I had written very little about Bonne Nuit over the last few years.  In fact the only real piece I could find was on the recent Stand Up Paddleboard race.  This is quite a serious omission as Bonne Nuit is a delightful north coast harbour from which to start a number of entertaining sea kayaking journeys.

The harbour was built in 1872 by the States of Jersey, to provide shelter for the local fishermen and a means of exporting stone from the quarries at Mont Mado, at the top of the hill.

In the middle of the bay is Cheval Rock, traditional was that on midsummers day the young maidens of the parish of St John as part of a fertility rite whilst other traditions state that it was merely a way of preventing bad luck in the coming year.

Today, located below some of the highest land on the Island, Bonne Nuit is a popular bay with visitors and locals alike.  Launching from the bay superb kayaking is reached, which ever way you head.  To the east is Belle Hougue, with steep slopes and some great tidal race paddling at certain times.  Heading to the west takes you towards Wolf's Caves and Sorel, steep cliffs and entertaining rock hopping.

Those who are attending the Sea Kayak Symposium in May, this year, will have the opportunity to paddle from here several times during the course of the week.  There are still a few places left, it is an excellent opportunity to visit Britain's most southerly inhabited island.

 High water on a neap tide.  The pier has always been a popular jumping location but unfortunately signs have appeared in the last couple of years stating it is not allowed.  Most people seem to ignore the signs as pier jumping is part of the heritage of Jersey people.

 Looking across to Bonne Nuit from Belle Hougue.  This clearly demonstrates how sheltered the harbour is from the south westerly winds, tucked in under some of the highest land in Jersey.

 Preparing to launch, early one January morning.  At low water on the larger spring tides the sea retreats to the end of the breakwater.

  Looking across to Belle Hougue, the tallest headland in Jersey, from the harbour wall.  There is a great tidal race, particularly on the ebb.  The sunlight is just catching the on the roof of La Crete Fort.

 Looking across Giffard Bay, from La Crete Fort.  On a big swell there is a lovely low tide break on this beach.

 La Crete Fort and Belle Hougue, the north coast footpath is clearly visible cutting across the hillside.  A walk or run along this path is a great way to spend a few hours and an excellent way to assess some superb paddling water.

Bonne Nuit from the west, the harbour is tucked in around the headland.  This picture clearly illustrates how quickly you reach an interesting section of coast.

Playing off Belle Houge, the tide is running from east to west and meeting the swell which is approaching from the west.  Great paddling.

Belle Hougue

Belle Hougue is possibly the most dramatic headland on Jersey and offers superb sea kayaking for the discerning paddler.  The tide race, which forms on the ebb is probably my favourite on the whole island.
It is the tallest headland in Jersey and a considerable race develops here on both the flood and the ebb.  If there is any swell running then the waves can break heavily over the offshore reefs.  The area around Les Sambues is probably the most interesting for those in search of white water excitement.  Fast moving water pours around the rocks when they are uncovered and stationary surfing waves form when they are submerged.   

In close at Belle Hougue there are numerous passages to be explored and at the western edge of the headland is Belle Hougue cave.  Access is difficult from the land and when it was first known to have been entered, in 1914, it contained stalagmites and stalactites.  Inside there have also been discovered the antlers, teeth and bones of a small species of deer which is unknown anywhere else.  Belle Hougue is a dramatic and awe inspiring location which demands respect in certain wind and tidal conditions.  It is also often the first place that the effect of the swell can be felt when you are paddling west along the north coast.

 Seen from close to Bonne Nuit, the small harbour to the west.  The coastal footpath is clearly visible descending diagonally

 Start to surf on the front wave.  Tour de Rozel is the headland visible in the distance.

This photograph was taken in the same place as the one above but on a day with different water and light conditions.

Looking west towards the main headland.  Belle Hougue cave is close to the base of the cliffs where the obvious skyline reaches the water.

 Threading through the channels close in shore.  On days with a big swell this area is beyond the entertainment level of most kayakers!

A moody winters morning.

 Belle Hougue seen from above just after take from Jersey.

Belle Hougue is one of those headlands which I never tire of paddling around.  The water is often entertaining even on the calmest summer days.