Disko Bay - Day 16

The last but one day on my trips in Disko Bay have always been memorable because the distances have always been short, there is the chance for a few pleasant snacks at lunch time and the evening meal is in one of the nicest restaurants I know, anywhere.  The H8.

I really enjoy the drop in pace, it allows you to adjust gradually back into "normal" life following several weeks out in the field.  Rodebay a small village, to the north of Ilulissat, was the focus of today's activities with lunch purchased at the shop and the evening meal taken in the restaurant.  It was really nice to be joined by Kampe who made the journey north from Ilulissat, in the evening, in his small boat.

Late in the evening we sat on the slabs, just to the south of the village, trying to come to terms with the awe inspiring view across Disko Bay, to the west, whilst realizing that this was likely to be our last night in the wilderness for some time.  This was a time to savour the experiences, as opposed to rush back to the "delights" of Ilulissat at full speed.

 Paddling towards Rodebay in almost perfect conditions.  We just needed to hope that the restaurant was taking bookings!

 I have always tended to use this narrow inlet on the southern side of town.  Landing was always slightly spoilt by the large quantities of broken glass which littered the beach.

 Toby in front of the kayaks.  The village shop is visible behind.

 The buildings in the village are quite spread out, it is alwaysquite pleasant to wander around the village whilst taking in the superb views to the west.

 Eric made friends with the local wildlife.

 He was quite a delightful dog who seemed quite happy to pass the afternoon in our company.

 Every now and again whilst walking around the villages you will across some surprising discoveries which provide a link to the past.

 Kampe joined us for the meal in the evening.  Coming up from Ilulissat in his trusty boat.

 Camp site just to the south of Rodebay.

 After a meal at the H8 restaurant it is always an emotional moment sitting on the slabs looking out across Disko Bay, knowing that this will be your last night in the wilderness for quite some time.

Day 15: Is this the best restaurant anywhere?

It was another short day, in fact it was more like a long morning.  A leisurely start packing on the slabs at Anoritoq before heading south to Rodebay, the final small village before Ilulissat.  If you have been kayaking in northern Disko Bay one of the rules is that you must stop at Rodebay in order to have meal at the H8 restaurant.  Which is probably my favourite restaurant anywhere.  The menu is fairly limited, this evening it was Musk Ox, on other occasions it has been halibut or whale, but the quality of the food, the setting and the service is second to none especially after 15 days out in the wilds.

There was plenty of ice heading south to Rodebay but we reached the village just in time to buy the obligatory cakes before the shop closed. We headed south, a couple of miles, before selecting a sheltered campsite which looked out across an ice filled Disko Bay. At times we wondered whether we were going to be able make any further progress because of the density of the ice, only time, the following day would show.

Our main focus for the evening though was the walk back into Rodebay, a cold beer and some delightful food. Sitting in the H8 is always a double edged experience. On the one hand we are enjoying a bit of luxury after weeks of living in basic conditions but on the other hand you know that the trip will be becoming an end.

 

 Heading south into the ice.  Rodebay is only a few miles away.

 Sometimes it was necessary to go closer to some bergs than we felt happy with.

Rodebay is a colourful village, on the main tourist route from Ilulissat

 A well earned beer outside the H8.

 Disko Bay with a considerable quantity of ice.

 Nicky making the most of our last evening out in the wild.  These are special moments.

 A fishing boat heading south, we would be following the same route less than 12 hours later.