Sark to Jersey

After a superb day and evening on Sark it was time to head home.  A memorable meal on the terrace of Stock's Hotel followed by an evening in the Mermaid Disco is something not to be missed.
It was a relatively early start as The Tower Hamlets Canoe Club members had flights to catch back to London and most of the Jersey paddlers had work on the Monday morning.
We chose an earlier departure time than normal and what a good decision.  The first two hours were relatively straight forward as we headed towards the Paternosters, although Brittany Ferries did pass a bit closer than I was happy with, paranoia from earlier crossings in my kayaking career.  Just to the north of the Paternosters we switched to a more south westerly track to take advantage of the tide, which helped push us along at over 6 knots.
Landfall in Jersey was just under 3 hours for the 12 mile open crossing and then we spent a bit of time was dawdling along one of the most spectacular sections of the Jersey coastline before landing at Stinky Bay.

A quick beer at the Watersplash was followed by a dash to the airport for our London paddling friends.  A delightful weekend.

 There are some things which make you realize that you are in Sark, including the size of the bank.

 The Avenue.  This is the main shopping centre in Sark.

 The Tower Hamlets Canoe Club members prior to departure.  What a great weekend to choose to come over from England.  Channel Island sea kayaking at its best.

 Just leaving Dixcart Bay looking along the east coast of Sark.

 

 Sark gradually starts to fall away.  We had left from Dixcart Bay, on the left of the photograph where the boats are anchored.

 Brittany Ferries from St Malo to Portsmouth did pass fairly close by, but its appearance out of the haze did help with our forward paddling speed!

 Landfall was between Grosnez Castle and Les Landes bunkers.  When we turned near the Paternosters, to take advantage of the tide, our speed increased to over 6 knots.

 Although we had been aware that there was a slight swell running as we crossed from Sark, it wasn't until we started to head through some of the reefs that we became aware of its impact.

 Just heading south past the Pinacle, one of Jersey's most distinctive physical features.

 Toby coming into Stinky Bay, a well named landing spot.  The decomposing sea weed, clung to our legs, clothes and kayaks with amazing tenacity.  Not the best place to land but a memorable arrival after a memorable few days.

Circumnavigation of Sark

Sark is one of the truly special sea kayaking destinations and this weekend we were fortunate enough to be able to complete a circumnavigation of the island in all almost perfect conditions.  Parts of the island have been covered in an earlier post in relation to Mervyn Peake and Sark but there is a lot more to the island.

We launched from Dixcart Bay, a convenient bay on the east coast, which provides relatively easy access to the main facilities on the Island, via a wooded valley.  The circumnavigation was clockwise meaning that we headed south first. Unusually there was very little swell so we were able to wander through the reefs and channels off the southern tip with relative ease.

Possibly the most challenging, but also most rewarding, part of the circumnavigation is the area around the Gouilot Passage.  To the west lies the privately owned island of Brecqhou, whilst to the east are the Gouilot Caves, through which the tide runs at quite a considerable pace.  The ability to perform a hanging draw, in the semi darkness, is a vital skill in this area.

To the north lie a variety of coastal erosion features such as the arch at Port au Moulin and the stacks at Les Autlets, interspersed with a huge number of caves, the presence of which were document by the Latrobe brothers in the early 20th century, a copy of their book is essential research for anybody exploring the coastline of Sark, by whatever means.

Bec du Nez the most northerly point of the island was missed as it was possible to cut through a channel to the south of the headland.  Heading south along the east coast we passed underneath Point Robert lighthouse before reaching Maseline Harbour.  This was completed in 1948 and was designed to take larger vessels than the original harbour at Creux, in the hope of increasing the number of visitors.

Creux Harbour lies just to the south of Maseline and was the original harbour.  It was destroyed in the winter storms of 1865/66 so the present jetty dates back to 1868.  We popped in for a quick visit, noticing the rack of sit on tops belonging to Adventure Sark, a specialist outdoor provider based on the Island.

From here we threaded our way through some very narrow passages before arriving at Derrible Bay, the Creux, a distinctive geographical feature is at the back of the bay and a must visit location, particularly if the tide is in.

Dixcart Bay is next, our starting point 8 miles earlier.  A memorable 3 hours of sea kayaking behind us. 

In the evening as we walked from the restaurant back to the campsite there was an intensity to the darkness which you don't get in many places, which is why the island was awarded Dark Sky Status. The clarity and number of stars was quite exceptional.  Just another reason to visit this sea kayaking heaven located about 12 miles north of Jersey.

 The view south from Dixcart Bay.  L'Etac is the island offshore, that is the usual landfall when crossing from Jersey.

 

 Paddling through the cave, just to the north of La Coupee, the narrow bridge of land which joins Sark to Little Sark.

Moie de Breniere, off the south east coast of the island

The whole of the coastline is pretty rugged, with easy access to the water only possible in a few places.

 Heading towards the Gouliot Passage.  Brecqhou is the island to the left.  The tides run up to 8 knots in this area.

 Looking across La Grande Greve towards La Coupee.

Entering the Gouliot Caves, the tide was running north through the caves, with a speed which created some interesting conditions.

Looking across the Gouliot Passage towards Brecqhou.

Toby sitting under the arch at Port au Moulin.

Paddling through Les Autlets

 Creux Harbour on the east coast was the original harbour for the island.

Looking out from the northern tunnel in the Creux de Derrible.  The conclusion of the circumnavigation is only another few hundred metres.