Morbihan

Every year the Jersey Canoe Club arranges a weekend to Morbihan in southern Brittany.  Most years we are blessed with settled conditions and warm temperatures but this wasn't the case this year, particularly on the Saturday.  Continuous rain on the Saturday was accompanied by increasing wind on the Saturday evening, resulting in a couple of the tents becoming damaged.

It didn't stop us getting on the water, both days, it was just that we didn't aim to paddle as far as in previous years. 
Still a thoroughly enjoyable weekend away though.

Our first port of call, in rapidly deteriorating weather was Er Lannic.  The stone circle is thought to be approximately 5,000 years old.  Where else is it possible to paddle so close to such significant historic monuments, whilst playing in significant tidal streams?

 Our plan was to paddle up the river to Auray.  The southerly breeze considerably assisting our progress but also blowing in some very damp conditions.

 It wasn't a day for the best photographs!

 Kayaks on the quayside at Auray  It was pretty miserable and we didn't need much convincing that an afternoon in the bar was far more preferable than 8 miles into a head wind in torrential rain.

 Sunday dawned far brighter, so following a paddle around the islands in the southern part of the Gulf we returned to the play spot near Ile Berder to make the most of the waves which are generated on the flood tide.

Lighthouses of Brittany Part 2.

There are endless opportunities for viewing Breton lighthouses from your sea kayak, here are a few more.  They are mainly from the north coast of Brittany.  I might be biased but I think the lighthouses on the north coast generally look more dramatic than those to the south. 

Situated in the Baie de Morlaix, Ile Noire lighthouse was built in 1845, with the keepers house added in 1879.  Paddling in this area is always enjoyable with numerous islands to explore.

La Croix.  Built in 1867 it is situated just to the south west of Ile de Brehat.  In common with some many lighthouses in this area the Germans blew the top of the light as they retreated.  It is always a welcome sight when paddling around Brehat.

Cap Frehel is the largest headland on the north Brittany coast and on clear nights I can see this light from near my house on Jersey.  It is open to visitors a certain times of the year.  The headland is spectacular when viewed from below in a sea kayak or whilst walking along the cliffs.

Sept Iles lighthouse is situated on Ile aux Moines,  part of a delightful archipelago to the north of Tregastel.  This was one of the last lighthouses in France to be manned by keepers.

The Port Navalo light marks to entrance to the Gulf du Morbihan.  This is one of the finest sea kayaking areas anywhere, a mixture of fast tidal streams and world class historic sites.  The lighthouse was built in 1892.

Sea Kayak Morbihan 2015

After the pool session last night with the Jersey Canoe Club we headed to the pub as usual for a quick pint and the conversation very quickly turned towards our future trip to Morbihan, on the first weekend in May.  I didn't manage to get there last year but since my first visit in 1984 I have paddled in this sea kayaking mecca numerous times.

It is the combination of strong tidal streams, numerous islands and world class historical sites, which combine to make this area of southern Brittany such a  great kayaking destination.  Roll on May but a quick look at a few photographs whetted the appetite.

 The island of Gavrinis, with the passage tomb clearly visible.  It is believed that it was constructed about 5,500 years ago.  There are great views as you paddle past but to see the ornate carvings inside the tomb it is necessary to travel by boat from Larmor-Baden.

 Sea kayaks on the quayside at Auray.  A delightful paddle up the western side of the Gulf.

 Er Lannic towards low water.  Where else in the world is it possible to paddle through a stone circle.

 Ruth enjoying the sensation of being on the water in Morbihan

 Heading south out of the entrance to the Gulf.  It won't be long to the welcome cool first drink at the campsite bar.  Port Navalo is on the opposite side of the entrance

 The tides are always entertaining.  Nicky is playing on the west coast of Ile aux Moines

 

Larmor-Baden.  Preparations are well under way for the first Greenland rolling competition to be held in Brittany.  We had a superb couple of days judging a large number of Breton paddlers competing in a variety of challenges. 

Top 5 Sea Kayak Trips

Whilst sitting around a camp fire on a remote beach or in the classroom on a 4 Star Assessment a question which regularly comes up is "What are the the 5 best sea kayak trips that you have ever done"?  Just take a minute to think about what are the best 5 days that you have spent in a sea kayak, factors to take into account might include companions, scenery, wildlife, weather etc.  What is interesting is that if you repeat the process in a couple of days time you will probably come up with some different paddles.

So I thought, what are my 5 most memorable sea kayaking day trips at the present time?  I present them below in no particular order.

There is something special about kayaking through the heart of the world's great cities. London and Paris have both been memorable paddles but looking back towards New York from the Statue of Liberty is second to none.

Heading through the Ecrehous reef.  Located approximately half way between Jersey and the coast of Normandy and visit to this delightful ref is a must for any sea kayaker who is visiting Jersey.  There will be a number of paddles arranged here during the Jersey Symposium in May

The west coast of Scotland is justifiably popular with sea kayakers and the paddle at from Elgol into the heart of the Cuillin Mountains has to be one of the finest one day paddles that there is.  This was a beautiful day a few years ago, the day trip at last years Scottish Sea Kayak Symposium included a quick visit to the neighbouring island of Soay.

Disko Bay on the west coast of Greenland has many of the basic ingredients of classic sea kayaking, isolation, dramatic scenery, memorable wildlife etc.  what makes it so special though is kayak through ice whilst there are historic and cultural links between the region and the kayaks we paddle.

This small island is Er Lannic in Morbihan, southern Brittany.  Where else is it possible to paddle in tidal streams which reach nearly 10 knots whilst less than a hundred metres away it is possible to explore semi submerged stone circles, several thousand years old?

Sea Kayaking in southern Brittany

When the number 56 on the car registration becomes the most numerous you know that you are entering the Department of Morbihan, in southern Brittany and some superb sea kayaking is within your reach.

In the Gulf Of Morbihan I normally head east, following the main flow of the tide and threading my way through the myriad of islands which are contained within this "inland sea".  This day though the aim was to follow the western branch of the Gulf up to the old port of Auray, which is one of those delightful Breton villages which you feel you should visit on several occasions.  In the sunshine they look particularly attractive and we were not disappointed with our day out.

If you are heading this way be sure to get hold of the superb sea kayaking guide, which was published earlier this year.

Entering the Gulf of Morbihan, we were staying on the western shore, following the river north towards Auray.  Although we were only on neap tides in places we had about 5 knots of assistance.

Passing underneath the bridge carrying the main road from Brest to Nantes.  This 20th century concrete bridge was in complete contrast to what lay ahead.

Arriving in Auray, a delightful French port, complete with traditional French sailing craft.

 Kayaks were hauled onto the quay side whilst sea paddlers went in search of some refreshments.  It was here that Benjamin Franklin landed on the 3rd December 1776, in disguise and after a difficult crossing of the north Atlantic he was serve as the US Ambassador to France for 9 years.

 Many of the old buildings are well preserved and the town of Auray is a delightful place to pass a few hours, but the tide had turned and it was time to hitch a free ride back to Locmariaquer.

 Getting ready to leave Auray.

Back at the campsite at Locmariaquer, a great base for sea kayakers and well worth a visit.

Morbihan Here We Come

It has been too long since I visited Morbihan in southern Brittany for some sea kayaking and so it was particularly pleasing when the Jersey Canoe Club decided to head south, the first weekend in May, coinciding with a Bank Holiday so we get 3 days paddling.

Flicking though some old photographs these images reminded me of what a superb kayaking destination it is with all the right ingredients, fast tidal streams, a rich historical landscape, varied wildlife and interesting scenery.

Something to dream about on a wet and windy January evening.

 Er Lannic, paddling next to a semi submerged stone circle which is approximately 5,000 years old, is not something that you have the opportunity to do every day.

 The entrance to the Gulf.  The open ocean lies ahead.

Gavrinis, one of the best preserved sites in Brittany.  Landing here isn't possible but the views are spectacular.

 A typical Morbihan paddling scene.  Wooded islands

Nicky playing in one of the areas of tidal movement.  In places the streams reach nearly 12 knots, which is always a challenge.

Morbihan Revisited Part 2

We awoke on the second day to thick fog.  Everything which had seemed so clear the day before was shrouded in mystery.  As we departed the beach, compass bearings, the GPS and acute hearing were the order of the day.  Morbihan at times can be one of the busiest areas of water that you will paddle in.  Numerous small ferries linking the various ports and more leisure craft that you can imagine.

As we crossed over the entrance the fog started to disperse as the rising sun worked its magic.  Within 20 minutes of starting to paddle we had seen 3 other groups of paddlers, testimony to the popularity of the area for sea kayaking.  We used the southern branch of the tidal stream to carry us into the eastern sections of the Gulf.  Running through gaps with the GPS registering over 7 knots meant that some members of the group were relieved that were only on neaps.  On a large spring tide the flows between the islands can be truly awesome.

The bird life in the area is amazingly diverse and varies from season to season.  The summer birds were clearly in the ascendancy, the cries of numerous terns pierced the air and Shelduck were visible around most of the islands.  What we were really interested in were the Ibis, which now reside in the Gulf, but we were to be disappointed.  We headed towards Ile Govihan, were we had seen them before but today the perches which had been occupied by Ibis previously, were now supporting cormorants.  Slightly disappointed on the ornithological front, we turned north in beautiful sunshine and steered towards Ile IIur.  The west facing beach was the lunch spot and it allowed us to explore the small settlement on the island, including its beautiful chapel.

The return journey was around the northern edge of the Gulf, passing close to Ile D’Arz and Ile aux Moines.  There were a number of superb old sailing ships which were visiting the Gulf as part of a maritime week which was due to start the following day.  One of the interesting things about paddling in Morbihan is how the tidal streams suddenly change from negligible to extremely fast in a short space of time.  As we passed the southern end of Ile Berder the water flow increased to about 6 knots and we enjoyed a fast ride towards the entrance of the Gulf.  Although the water was quite confused it was important to keep away from the eddies along the edge where violent boils could throw the kayaks around at will.  The problem with the main channel is the sheer number of other craft, one French fisherman in particular shaking his fist and exclaiming that we were all going to die.   Clearly he had less confidence in the kayaks than we did!

As we approached the entrance to the Gulf the tidal streams continued to assist our journey.  It was important to plan several moves ahead though, at one point we were moving sideways at over 6 knots.  As the narrows of the entrance were cleared, the force of the tide quickly dissipated and we were able to ease our way back to the south facing beach from where we had left 6 hours previously.

The Golfe du Morbihan  is a fascinating sea kayaking destination and when combined with paddling in a couple of the other Breton regions it would make an ideal venue for a weeks holiday.  The combination of tidal streams, historical traditions and Breton hospitality will ensure a thoroughly enjoyable visit!

 Looking from Gavrinis towards the entrance to the Gulf

 Due to the nature of the region there is always somewhere sheltered to pull up for lunch.  This particular day we selected Ile Ilur.

 The area has a rich maritime tradition which is maintained to the present day.  Paddling around Morbihan there is usually a variety of sailing craft to observe.

 

 A number of the vessels have not stood the test of time and in some of the more sheltered inlets it is possible to encounter ships which are a shadow of their former glory.

 Morbihan is a great place for developing white water skills.  Nicky is playing on some small tidal rapids off the south west corner of Ile aux Moines.

 The overall memory of paddling in Morbihan is of fast moving tidal streams, in certain areas, set against a rich historical backdrop and diverse wildlife. 

Morbihan Revisited

It had been 12 months since our last visit, which was probably too long.  Morbihan (which means “Little Sea” in Breton) has to be one of the great paddling areas of Europe.  Don’t expect dramatic scenery and a wilderness experience though.  This is a popular tourist and sailing venue but the combination of world class historical sites, tidal streams reaching 8 knots, a diverse bird population and usually pleasant weather conditions produce a fascinating kayaking area.

The small fishing boat was closing pretty quickly upon us, even though the GPS was registering nearly 8 knots and we were barely paddling.  The narrowing of the channel to the south of Iles Berder and Gavrinis forced the stream to accelerate as it rushed towards the open sea, still nearly 2 miles away.  We were taking advantage of this liquid conveyor belt but clearly the fisherman had other ideas about both our sanity and paddling ability.  The raised, shaking fist and the shouts that we were stupid and likely to die did little to improve the confidence of the more hesitant members of the group.

We were on the final rush towards the open sea at the end of two days of superb paddling.  Although the tidal streams do run fast in the Gulf, with appropriate planning it is possible to harness that power to your own advantage and so enjoy a relatively effort free ride around the inner recesses of the Gulf.  Although many people are put off by stories regarding the power of the tidal runs do not be unduly apprehensive.  Try to arrange your first visit to coincide with neaps, use a detailed chart and be sure of your position at all times.  

Saturday was a leisurely exploration of the islands close to Larmor-Baden.  One ferry glide after another allowed us to access golden sandy beaches, narrow inlets and historical sites.  To me the most fascinating location is the semi-submerged stone circle of Er Lannic, due to sea level rise the circle is largely submerged at high water, where else is it possible to paddle through megalithic monuments?  As the afternoon progressed we jumped onto the ebbing tide and hitched a free ride back to Locmariaquer.

Locmariaquer at dawn.  We had just popped out for croissants, but the sun rise promised a geat day on the water.  This small town, close to the western entrance to the Gulf, is an ideal base for a few days sea kayaking.

Er Lannic, a semi submerged stone circle.  Landing is not possible because this is now a bird reserve but it is an inspirational place to kayak past.  These stones are estimated to be 5,000 years old and have been affected by rising sea levels.  Just to the north tidal streams run in excess of 9 knots!

 

 Gavrinis dominates much of this area of Morbihan but the island is famous because of its important passage grave from the Neolithic era. When it was constructed, c. 3500 BC, the island was still connected to the mainland. Inside the tomb there are some stunning decorated slabs which means that it is one of the most important sites in Europe.  Unfortunately access is only possible using the tour boats from Lamor-Baden.

 

Lamor-Baden viewed from the south.

 

 A typical Morbihan scene.  Most of the land visible in the photograph is on islands.  It is a complex area where accurate navigation is important.

One of the numerous navigation marks in the area, it is important to know your buoyage.  Port Navalo is to the east but we were turning west to land on the small beach we had left a few hours earlier.

This posting was first published in May 2008.

Morbihan

It had been 12 months since our last visit, which was probably too long. Morbihan (which means “Little Sea” in Breton) has to be one of the great paddling areas of Europe. Don’t expect dramatic scenery and a wilderness experience though. This is a popular tourist and sailing venue but the combination of world class historical sites, tidal streams reaching 8 knots, a diverse bird population and usually pleasant weather conditions produce a fascinating kayaking area.

The entrance to the Golfe de Morbihan. A knowledge of buoyage is vital here because of the numerous craft which navigate the waters and the speed at which they travel.

The small fishing boat was closing pretty quickly upon us, even though the GPS was registering nearly 8 knots and we were barely paddling. The narrowing of the channel to the south of Iles Berder and Gavrinis forced the stream to accelerate as it rushed towards the open sea, still nearly 2 miles away. We were taking advantage of this liquid conveyor belt but clearly the fisherman had other ideas about both our sanity and paddling ability. The raised, shaking fist and the shouts that we were stupid and likely to die did little to improve the confidence of the more hesitant members of the group.

History from the water. The stone circle at Er Lannic at low water, as the tide rises it is possible paddle between the stones. Just to the north, across the fast moving tidal stream is Gavrinis, the world famous passage grave, is visible in the trees.

We were on the final rush towards the open sea at the end of two days of superb paddling. Although the tidal streams do run fast in the Gulf, with appropriate planning it is possible to harness that power to your own advantage and so enjoy a relatively effort free ride around the inner recesses of the Gulf. Although many people are put off by stories regarding the power of the tidal runs do not be unduly apprehensive. Try to arrange your first visit to coincide with neaps, use a detailed chart and be sure of your position at all times.

Saturday was a leisurely exploration of the islands close to Larmor-Baden. One ferry glide after another allowed us to access golden sandy beaches, narrow inlets and historical sites. To me the most fascinating location is the semi-submerged stone circle of Er Lannic, due to sea level rise the circle is largely submerged at high water, where else is it possible to paddle through megalithic monuments? As the afternoon progressed we jumped onto the ebbing tide and hitched a free ride back to Locmariaquer.

Locmariaquer at dawn. A great place to base yourself for the weekend or longer.