A few aerial shots

I can never understand people who actually select a non window seat when flying because, without doubt, the best onboard entertainment is found from looking out of the window.  Frequently the flights pass over some of the more classic paddling destinations, so the advice would be to always keep your camera at the ready.  You are unlikely to be disappointed.

 An early morning departure from Heathrow gave superb views of London.   The Isle of Dogs is clearly visible and the more eagle eyed will be able to find the location of Shadwell Basin, where we were paddling last weekend. 

 Lihou is a small island off the west coast of Guernsey, where we have passed many a happy weekend.  This was taken in the aftermath of a February storm, hence the swell breaking on the north and west coasts.  We are there this weekend but the forecast is for much calmer conditions.

 Brecqhou, off the west coast of Sark.  The narrow channel is the Gouliot Passage, where the tidal streams can reach 7 knots on springs.  A very entertaining location.

 Just after take off from Ilulissat in Greenland and before the plane turns to the west and the south.  These waters had been much more ice choked when we had paddled south a couple of days earlier.

 Approaching the Isle of Wight.  The entrance to the River Medina at Cowes is clearly visible.  Calshot is largely obscured by the bank of cloud.  This picture was taken when heading south towards Jersey

 Heading north from Jersey you have a different perspective from the Isle of Wight.  We are just to the east of the island looking down Southampton Water.  Portsmouth Harbour is visible in the middle of the picture, whilst Langstone Harbour is to the right.

 Alderney is the most northerly of the Channel Islands and the closest to France.  The harbour at Braye is clearly visible, whilst the small island is Burhou, a fascinating bird colony.  Between Alderney and Burhou is the Swinge, with tidal streams of 7 knots, whilst on the other side of the island is the famous Alderney Race, where speeds can reach 8-9 knots in places.

 Bonne Nuit bay on the north coast of Jersey, a popular place for the start of kayaking trips.  In the middle of the bay Cheval Rock is clearly visible.

 Departing from Jersey in a westerly direction, the cliffs at L'Etacq are exposed to the Atlantic swell.

Flying out of Milos in Greece, after what would have been another great weeks sea kayaking.  We are looking across to the summit of Mount Profitis Elias 748 metres (2,454 feet) high.  On one particularly windy day we did walk to the summit, from which we were able to see some of the finest sea kayaking destinations anywhere.

Disko Bay - Day 17

Your final day on a long trip is always a time of conflicting emotions.  We had taken part in a really memorable paddle through some stunning scenery.  There was far more ice around than I had experienced on my 5 previous trips in Greenland, which at times had presented a significant challenge and even up until the last we weren't sure how things were going to go.  The French paddlers we had seen a few days earlier had taken 2 days to get out of Ilulissat because of the ice, if we took two days to get in then we would miss our flights home.

There was quite a special feeling, this was the conclusion of a project which had started over 2 years earlier.  At the Scottish Sea Kayak Symposium in 2013 we came under some pressure to run another event in Jersey in 2014.  It was eventually agreed that we would go ahead with the event but the aim was to raise enough funds to be able to buy a number of sea kayaks to place in Greenland, which would be available for the participants at the event to use.  Effectively we were aiming to re-invest in the sport.

2015 was the first year that the kayaks were available and they were used for 40 days, which was a successful year from the Jersey Canoe Club's perspective.  We already have bookings for 2016 as well as tentative inquiries for 2017.  A successful legacy from the Jersey Sea Kayak Symposium, which will hopefully allow more paddlers to experience the memorable kayaking off the west coast of Greenland.

The final morning.  We had lifted the kayaks up quite a distance the night before as there were a number of large bergs just offshore and we didn't want to risk losing the kayaks on the final night.

Eric heading south through the ice towards Ilulissat.

Our first glimpse of Ilulissat.  We were still concerned about whether we would be able to reach the town.  There was a significant amount of ice, the only indicator which gave us hope were the number of small boats going past.  They had clearly been able to force their way out of the harbour.

 The last few hundred metres and there was a hint of open water between the ice floes.

 The final slabs on which we pulled the kayaks.  At this point we knew that in 36 hours time we would be on the flights home.

Disko Bay - Day 1

Last year the Jersey Canoe Club ran its 11th Sea Kayak Symposium, which generated some funds for the development of paddle sport.  It was decided to purchase a number of sea kayaks and place them on the west coast of Greenland, which is truly one of the great places to go paddling.

The kayaks were used for the first time by a Breton group at the beginning of July, read Peter's blog of some of his experiences in Greenland, and then we flew out to start our 18 day journey.  Its very easy to tun out of superlatives when describing the kayaking in Greenland, but hopefully the photographs give a sense of what its like.

Ilulissat Ice fjord, the most productive glacier in the northern hemisphere lies at the head of this fjord.  Anybody visit Ilulissat, the tourist capital of Greenland should walk to the edge of town to view one of the wonders of the natural world.

Looking north across Disko Bay.  Our route was heading through all that ice, this was my sixth trip in Greenland but I had never seen this much ice before.  Luckily some of the ice dispersed overnight so the initial part of the journey was slightly easier than we anticipated.  A French group of paddlers leaving a few days after us, took 2 days to get away from Ilulissat because of the ice.

 Alex threading his way through some of the smaller pieces of ice.  The hanging draw is one of the most useful strokes to master in this type of environment.

Generally when kayaking the ice the water is pretty smooth.  If the wind does pick up and the ice starts to move then a much more challenging situation develops and it is essential to avoid getting trapped by the ice.

 

 Nicky passing the small village of Rodebay.  In 15 days time we will be back to eat at one of my favourite restaurants to be found anywhere, the H8.  Today though we just wanted to press on north to reach the slabs at Anoritoq, where we knew there was a good campsite.

 There were some bigger bergs around and as general rule you need to keep away from them or if you were forced to pass close by be ready to paddle flat out.

Toby is not as close at it looks, the use of a telephoto lens can completely change the perspective.

 Ice bergs and blue skies eat the memory, of the camera, faster than almost anything else.  As we came towards the end of our first day on the water little did we realize that we wouldn't have a day this warm for the rest of the trip.

 Arriving close to our first nights camp.  The glacial scoured slabs make a great place to camp.  Easy to exit from the kayaks and lift them up above the high water mark and hopefully less bugs because of the reduced amount of standing water.  Also perfect for sitting on and sipping an after paddle Pernod.

 Toby was the youngest member of the group and the person who swam the most, I am not sure the two facts are related.  The sea temperature is barely above freezing.  A memorable end to the first day.

A Greenland Summer

The Jersey Canoe Club held a Symposium in May 2014. which attracted a significant number of paddlers to the Island.  One of the aims of the Symposium was to generate some funds to help purchase some kayaks to place on the west coast of Greenland, which will be available for members and friends of the Club to hire at what is planned to be a very reasonable rate.  The aim is to allow as many people as possible to experience the joys of paddling in the northern waters.

The great news is that today we received the date for when the kayaks are due to be shipped out, so our paddling trip for the summer of 2015 is sorted.  Ilulissat here we come, hopefully experiencing kayaking similar to that in the photographs below.

Classic Greenland paddling on a day with plenty of ice.

 Head nets, an essential piece of kit on evenings when there is little or no wind.

 Classic lunch spots  can be found most days.

The larger bergs require a wide berth.

 The launch spot in Ilulissat, on the west coast of Greenland

 Saqqaq, one of the small settlements in northern Disko Bay.

 On previous visit to Saqqaq the weather had been superb.  It was an ice cream day!

 Although it never went dark there were some memorable sunsets

 The tipi, an essential item of group equipment.  Protection from the insects or the weather.

Some things you will never forget.

Ilulissat

Approximately half way up the west coast of Greenland is Disko Bay, and on the eastern shore of this large natural feature is the town of Ilulissat.  This settlement is effectively the tourism capital of Greenland but it lies at the heart of some finest sea kayaking on the planet.  

I first paddled here in 1993 and it is quite amazing how it has changed over the years, I have since visited on 4 different occasions and we are just starting to put together the plans to visit the area in the summer of of 2015, for a 3 week paddling trip.

These photographs have all been taken since 2008 but when time allows I should look up my old slides from over 20 years ago to refresh my memory.

This the view of Ice Fjord as the aircraft begins its final approach into Ilulissat.  Any self respecting sea kayakers pulse will be racing by this time.

Chris packing in 2008 and attracting the attention of some of the local youngsters.

The first day of a new school year and may of the children appeared in national costume.

The view north.  The route always takes you around the rocky headland and after about 6 miles various options open up. 

It is hard to describe the architecture as exceptional but there is always something exciting about wandering around Ilulissat.  I suppose its because you are about to head out on a great trip or because you have just had a superb few weeks.

Above packing to leave in 2009 and below arriving back 19 days later.

 The harbour is very much a working harbour with many of the boats showing the signs of collisions with ice.

 Knud Rasmussen's birth place and now a museum.  Well worth a visit.

 This is some view from the kitchen window of a house.

 When we first visited in 1993 I don't remember seeing any kayaks.  How times have changed.

 You know that you are in the Arctice when you see signs like these.

Day 16: The final day of kayaking

There is always a feeling of anti climax when such a superb trip comes to an end and it was somewhat fitting that we completed the 12 nautical mile paddle in perfect conditions.  Sea kayakers head towards Greenland to experience icebergs, wildlife and stunning scenery.  Today all three came together to produce a memorable end to our time kayaking in the Arctic.

Disko Bay is one of the finest sea kayaking destinations that I am aware of, I have enjoyed all 5 journeys that I have undertaken in the area, the only question which remains is when will we head north again to this beautiful area.

 Andy making progress south in perfect sea kayaking conditions.

Gordon picking his way through the ice to the south of Rodebay.

The bay was full of ice of different sizes and shapes. 

Nicky approaching the finish at Ilulissat.  The channel wasn't always obvious.

Looking south from Ilulissat, the large bergs are coming out of the world famous Ice Fjord.

These slabs have seen the beginning and end of many of my sea kayaking adventures.  Today the weather allowed us to unpack and sort out our equipment in a fairly relaxed manner.  You don't want trips like this to finish.