Daily Picture - 17

Great afternoon today stand up paddle boarding in Tregastel, Brittany, followed by a walk along the coast.  Looking out to Sept Iles, some great sea kayaking days over the years.

Triagoz

The Cote de Granit Rose is that stretch of the Brittany coastline, which is much loved by visiting British yachtsmen, and land based tourists.  Although the inhabitants have French passports they are regard themselves first and foremost as Bretons.  The coastline is deeply indented as a number of ria’s penetrate the countryside of Cote D’Armor and these inlets provide shelter during the periods of unsettled weather which can sweep across the region.  Along the coast a number of small bays and harbours are virtually enclosed by the large granite monoliths, which are widely spread providing a unique and dramatic seascape.

Against this background there is some superb sea kayaking.

It was an early April morning that we met at Ile Grande, the early season meant that car parking was not a problem.  Our destination for the day was the Triagoz lighthouse, about six miles to the northwest.  The tides in this area can run with a speed that can catch people unawares and to approach Triagoz meant crossing the tidal streams so we had chosen a neap tide to minimisz the effect of the flow.

As we paddled out from Ile Grande, along one of the many channels, which run in between the surrounding reefs it, became apparent that there was a swell approaching from the west.  As the swell began to feel the shallower water they steepened rapidly before crashing forwards in a surge wall of white, the unleashing of such power emphasized the need to steer clear of the reefs.

Triagoz lighthouse was built in 1864 and its light, 30 metres above the sea, is visible from 14 miles away.  On this day the early season mist, which hung over the water meant that the light wasn’t visible from 5 miles away and so, we headed out on a compass bearing towards an unseen destination.  After about 1.5 miles the Bar-ar-Gall west cardinal mark slipped by to our left and we entered deeper water.  The mean depth changing from under 20 metres to over 60 metres with a result that the swell settled into a more regular rhythm.  This was a swell, which had travelled from the open ocean, and there was a feeling of real power as we rose and sank a couple of metres at a time.

Eventually the lighthouse started to emerge from the haze and its face glowed gold reflecting the local rock from which it had been constructed.  The defensive ring of reefs was fringed white as the Atlantic swell was halted in its progress east.  We had hoped to land and to briefly explore the area surrounding the light, no more internal visits though, this light became automatic in 1984.  Unfortunately the ever-present swell prevented this happening.  We could have landed but this was not an emergency or a sea kayaking assessment, no need to risk the kayaks so we remained in deep water, savouring the atmosphere and taking photographs before turning east towards a known landing spot.

Les Sept Iles were six miles to the east but we had some tidal assistance for this section of the journey.  Barely visible in the distance we were being drawn towards them both by the tide and by reputation.  Located 3 miles north of the Breton coast they are a superb paddling destination in their own right.  Numerous vedettes travel backwards and forwards between the islands and the mainland but it is only possible to land on one of the islands, Ile aux Moines, the others are all part of the nature reserve.

The bird life in the area is truly spectacular.  On Ile Rouzic there are thousands of pairs of gannets, the most southerly colony on the eastern side of the Atlantic.  For the majority of the boat travelling tourists though the most exciting observation would be of a Puffin, which breed here in small numbers.  I would doubt if hardly any would become excited at the passage of a Manx Shearwater, which also breed in the area.  As we approached the archipelago a few of these birds passed close by and to me they embodied all that is interesting in a bird.  Complete mastery of their environment with a freedom of spirit to roam widely across the ocean.  As they glided past on stiffened wings there was the occasional tilting of the head as if in disbelief as to the type of craft they could see on the water.  The most common bird was the gannet, numerous individuals flying past on their regular commute from Ile Rouzic to the more distant fishing grounds.  Their numbers increasing dramatically during the last few hundred of metres, even if it was thick fog it would have been apparent that we were about to make a landfall.

As we approached the reef it appeared as if there was a line of mist across the rocks at the western end of the reef.  It quickly became apparent that this fog was in fact spray being unleashed from the exploding swells.  Clearly as we bore down on the islands it was going to be necessary to exercise a degree of caution to ensure that we weren’t swept into a maelstrom of exploding waves.  Le Cerf was the first landfall that we made, more of a large rock than a small island, we skirted north avoiding a number of dramatic reef breaks until we entered the calmer waters inside the reef.  We knew that there was a seal colony and were not disappointed when a number of inquisitive individuals swam out to accompany us on our exploration of the reef.

We landed on the northern side of Ile aux Moines for lunch, basking in the early April sun and savouring some of the delights of the Breton cuisine with a number of local paddlers.  Clearly a huge amount of military building had been undertaken in the past but for me the most dramatic man made feature was the lighthouse.  Its construction was started in 1854 and its powerful light is a key feature when approaching this coast.
We circumnavigated the two largest islands, Ile aux Moines and Ile Bono, encountering a number of the nesting birds, which have made these islands such an important ornithological site.  Time was pressing though and it was time to cross the channel towards the mainland.  On spring tides the streams run through the channel at speeds of up to 4 knots and with an adverse wind a significant sea can be generated.  Fortune smiled on us that afternoon and the ferry glide towards the perched granite boulders of the shoreline was carried out in flat calm seas.  We skirted the outside of Ploumanac’h, possibly the most picturesque harbour on the north coast of Brittany, and passed close to Tregastel, so popular with tourists during the summer months.

We threaded our way through the reefs back to Ile Grande, from where we had departed six hours and 20 nautical miles earlier.  Some of the French paddlers concluded their day with a number of celebratory rolls but I was more interested in remaining dry.  As we changed in the car park the full implications of the day’s paddle began to sink in.  We had visited two of the major lighthouses of northern Brittany and seen a diverse range of wildlife in a dramatic natural environment. 

 Rafted up close to Triagoz during one of the few lulls in the swell.

 

 Approaching Sept Iles.  We had been in the kayaks for nearly 4 hours at this point with just a few minutes break close to Triagoz.

Looking back through the reefs, close to Tregastel, a real jewel, on the Breton coast.

It wouldn't have been to healthy to have been caught inside the break at times.

 Heading along the channel back into Ile Grande, the following sea was certainly helping our progress.

Sept Iles - Brittany

To the north of the Cote de Granit Rose in northern Brittany lies the delightful archipelago of Sept Iles.  In 1912 these islands received protection as a bird reserve and today the variety and numbers of birds are one of the major attractions for the paddler.  They lie about 3 miles offshore and landing is prohibited on all except Ile aux Moines, which is easily distinguished by its lighthouse.  The crossing of the channel from the mainland requires planning because of the speed of the tidal streams.

There are two obvious departure points, Ploumanac’h and Tregastel.  Ploumanac’h is a delightful anchorage a couple of miles to the west of Perros Guirec and every effort should be made to visit it, if you are in the area.  The water level is maintained in the harbour by a man made sill, so if the tide is dropping a short portage may be necessary.  Ile de Costaeres, with its distinctive chateau, guards the entrance to the main channel into the harbour but beyond lie Sept Iles, the object of the paddle. 

The tides run through the channel between the Cote de Granit Rose and Sept Iles reaching speeds of four knots on spring tides.  Overfalls can occur close to Basse Meur and Basse du Chenal but crossing over at close to slack water will help to avoid the rough water, unless of course you are looking for that particular brand of excitement.  The east going stream begins at about 4 hours before HW Roscoff and the west going starts at 2 hours after HW Roscoff.

Crossing over to the islands it is inevitable that numerous gannets will be wheeling in the vicinity of the kayaks.  Ile Rouzic, the most easterly of the islands, is the site of France’s only gannet colony, with thousands of pairs cramped onto the steep slopes.  Other birds may be seen such as Manx shearwaters, shelduck and the delightful puffin.  A number of these birds are on the southern limit of their range.

I tend to head towards Ile aux Moines, where it is possible to land for lunch.  On the western end are the remains of a fort commissioned by Louis XIV but not completed until 1729.  It was manned by a small garrison until 1873 and then again briefly during the Second World War by the Germans.  Today it remains disused as do the buildings on the northern side of Ile aux Moines, close to a slipway, which is probably the most suitable place on the island to stop for lunch.  The pools to the north are a popular haunt of the grey seals which frequent the islands. 

The lighthouse on Ile aux Moines was built in 1854 although it was destroyed on the 4th August 1944 by the retreating Germans.  Reconstruction started in 1949 and the light was switched on again in July 1952.  Today its light is visible for 24 miles and is one of the major navigational marks of northern Brittany.  It marks the dangers presented by the seven islands of the archipelago.

The most westerly of the islands is more of a wave swept rock than an island; Le Cerf is exposed to the full power of the Atlantic swell.  Swift tidal streams run between the rocks and can provide entertainment for those paddlers who seek pleasure in such areas.  Ile Plate, slightly to the north of Ile aux Moines often provides a green backdrop to the lunch spot.  The largest of the islands is Ile Bono, which is joined to Ile aux Moines at low water, rising to a height of 53 metres, it is the largest of the islands.  Its whaleback ridge provides a spectacular backdrop as one threads a path through the reefs on the northern side of the island.  The southern slopes drop far more steeply into the water. 

It is in the vicinity of Ile Bono that Puffins are most likely to be encountered.  As in so many other areas the puffin population has suffered catastrophic decline.  It was estimated that there were 7,000 pairs present in 1950 but by 1990 this had dropped to 170 pairs.  I would suggest that this is probably an optimistic number as I have never seen more than a handful in my visits.  In contrast the gannet population has undergone significant growth.  The first breeding was in 1939; by 1990 the population had risen to 7,700 pairs and then more than 15,000 pairs by 2003!  One thing is certain; a paddler visiting these waters will encounter large numbers of these majestic sea birds.

To the north east of Ile Bono lie the smaller islands of Ile de Malban and Ile Rouzic.  The latter is the gannet colony.  Care needs to be exercised when approaching these islands in order to avoid disturbing the birds and landing is prohibited at all times.  Human disturbance is the main threat to the diverse birdlife in the area although in the past the menace has arrived in a more unpleasant form.  The black tide of an oil spill affected the islands from both the Torrey Canyon (1967) and Amoco Cadiz (1980).

All too soon the need to cross back to the mainland arises.  Unless six hours are spent on the islands then one of the crossings will have to be made when it isn’t slack water.  The ability to ferry glide, use transits and increase forward paddling speed if necessary are essential skills for a safe crossing too and from the islands.  There are numerous pleasant bars in the coastal villages in which to savour a vin rouge or a pression after a great day on the water and to plan the next paddle.  What is certain that one visit to Sept Iles is probably not enough to satisfy the demands of the discerning sea kayaker. 

 Coz Pors at Tregastel.  Probably my favourite departure point for Sept Iles.

Heading across the channel.  Sept Iles are clearly visible.  What is not so obvious is the speed of the tidal flows.

The western end of Iles aux Moines.  The lighthouse is a significant feature along this stretch of coast.

A great lunch spot.  Seals are frequently encountered in the pool behind the paddlers.

 Approaching the gannet colony on Ile Rouzic.  Large seabird colonies are always an amazing sight.

 Pete enjoying one of the many of the days that we have spent around Sept Iles over the last 20 years.

Cote de Granit Rose

This has to be one of the most beautiful stretches of coast in France, if not in northern Europe. It is well known from the tourist brochures and guide books and each year attracts significant numbers of visiting yachtsmen.
My favourite departure point is from Coz Pors at Tregastel, the paddling in either direction is memorable but last Saturday we decided to head east towards Ile Tome, an island of approximately 35 hectares whose spine runs north south. Situated off Perros Guirec, it has been uninhabited since the Second World War and the last few years have seen an active programme aimed to rid the island of rats to allow sea birds to breed, and so far it appears to have been successful.

One of the distinctive features of this stretch of coastline are some spectacular coastal residences.

First of all though it was important to pay a visit to the small harbour at Ploumanach, it is reckoned by many to be the finest anchorage on the north coast of Brittany. As the tide was high we were able to paddle over the sill, which keeps the water in at low tide, and approach the tidal mills, a feature of this area.

Another feature of this area are lighthouses, of which a number were visible during the course of the paddle. One of my favourites is the Phare de Men Ruz, just to the east of Ploumanach. For those who are really interested in lighthouses it is possible to buy a re-usable shopping bag from Geant supermarkets complete with a photograph of the distinctive light.

There are some significant tidal streams in the area and access to Ile Tome was only possible by ferry gliding across the ebbing tide. The waves were not too big and some strategically placed navigation marks allowed us to use transits to maintain our course. We wanted a lunch stop not to be swept west along the coast away from our intended destination.

Ferry gliding across to Ile Tome, the tide was emptying out the bay of Perros Guirec, creating entertaining water conditions.

Lunch spot on the east coast of Ile Tome.

Offshore Sept Iles were clearly visible but they were not for us today, our interest lay back along the coast at Tregastel in the shape of an ice cold beer.