Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Day 15: Is this the best restaurant anywhere?

It was another short day, in fact it was more like a long morning.  A leisurely start packing on the slabs at Anoritoq before heading south to Rodebay, the final small village before Ilulissat.  If you have been kayaking in northern Disko Bay one of the rules is that you must stop at Rodebay in order to have meal at the H8 restaurant.  Which is probably my favourite restaurant anywhere.  The menu is fairly limited, this evening it was Musk Ox, on other occasions it has been halibut or whale, but the quality of the food, the setting and the service is second to none especially after 15 days out in the wilds.
There was plenty of ice heading south to Rodebay but we reached the village just in time to buy the obligatory cakes before the shop closed. We headed south, a couple of miles, before selecting a sheltered campsite which looked out across an ice filled Disko Bay. At times we wondered whether we were going to be able make any further progress because of the density of the ice, only time, the following day would show.
Our main focus for the evening though was the walk back into Rodebay, a cold beer and some delightful food. Sitting in the H8 is always a double edged experience. On the one hand we are enjoying a bit of luxury after weeks of living in basic conditions but on the other hand you know that the trip will be becoming an end.
 
 Heading south into the ice.  Rodebay is only a few miles away.
 Sometimes it was necessary to go closer to some bergs than we felt happy with.
Rodebay is a colourful village, on the main tourist route from Ilulissat
 A well earned beer outside the H8.
 Disko Bay with a considerable quantity of ice.
 Nicky making the most of our last evening out in the wild.  These are special moments.
 A fishing boat heading south, we would be following the same route less than 12 hours later.

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