Monday, October 15, 2012

Day 14: Almost there

When we launched from Kugssuaq, we knew that it was due to be a short day but were not certain that we would manage to reach our destination.  The pressure was right down and there were some very ominous looking clouds, it was one of those days when the weather could go either way.  A bitterly cold south easterly wind took the edge off the morning but just before the large inlet of Pakitsoq, the wind dropped off completely.
This was the fifth time that I had crossed Pakitsoq by kayak and on every other occasion there had been superb views of whales, today though we were to be disappointed by the lack of these huge creatures.  One possible explanation was that to the west there was a continuous line of ice and experience had shown that there was very little chance of seeing whales when there is ice about.
The south western edge of the fjord was choked with ice, within a metre of the shore.  Paddling through the leads close to the shore was a particularly vulnerable feeling.  We managed to find a way through before reaching our campsite in Anoritoq.  
The rocky slabs are a great place to spend time with the inland area well worth exploring.  It was only a 13 nautical mile day but it was worth stopping and if you are ever paddling through this area of Disko Bay make sure you camp here.
Leaving Kugssuaq, Arve Prinsens Ejland is the island behind.  The eastern shore is steep with few landing places.
Gordon threading his way through a narrow lead.
Up close and personal with ice.
 Not all icebergs are the beautiful blues and whites of the majority of photographs, as this moraine covered berg illustrates.
The slabs at Anoritoq are a great place to land and camp or to sleep as shown below.
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 Looking out across what looks like an ice choked Disko Bay, we were wondering what conditions were going to be like the following morning.
Reflections along the opposite shore
 Inland exploration in the evening as the sun sets and shadows lengthen.
 A particularly memorable evening, three years earlier.  Not the sort of activity that is normally associated with Greenland.

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