Day 12: Glaciers and Foxes

The wind of the previous day appeared to have died down so we headed north towards Qamavik, where a narrow gap leads into the more open waters of Torssukatak, although there is always the potential for a significant amount of ice in the channel.

Just before passing through the gap we stopped for a quick break, knowing that the next easy place to get off the water was about 15 nautical miles away. Whilst there the wind increased quite significantly so we spent rather longer than we planned on this small island, but it did allow time for further exploration. The remains of a walrus skull, a species I have never managed to see alive, was found. Eventually we took the plunge and headed north and then east into Torssukatak, the views up towards the glaciers, about 25 nautical miles away, were simply stunning whilst to our right dramatic cliffs rose steeply to near 1,500 feet but in contrast to other trips through this area there was significantly less ice so it was straight forward paddling for the next couple of hours.

We camped on the island, Igdluluarssuit nunatat, fortunately sheltered from the north as during the night particularly violent winds developed, gusts could be heard roaring over the clifftop behind us.  As we lay in the tent we were unaware of the impact it would have on our paddling the following day.

 Looking towards the narrow gap, the white horses built quickly so we spent an hour or so monitoring the wind before deciding to carry on.

The remains of the walrus skull

Gordon looking towards the distant glaciers.

 There were a few icebergs around but very little other ice.

Three years ago we had camped in the obvious valley on the other side of the channel.  On that occasion there was so much ice around that it wasn't possible to see from one side to the other.

Nicky close to one of the few bergs in the area.

 Close to the campsite a family of Arctic foxes were exploring the shoreline.

 Agnes and Gordon starting the evening meal.  The insects were also preparing for their evening feed.

 The locals gathering around Gordon.

 A small Pernod to celebrate another 20 nautical miles covered.  The lower cloud base was soon to produce rain, forcing us into the tents, an early warning of a really wild night.