North to Athabasca

In the summer of 2000 I took a group of young people from Jersey to paddle the Allagash Wilderness Waterway in northern Maine.  I remember sitting on the shore of one of the lakes watching a float plane come into land and drop off a solo paddler.  I made a note in my journal to the effect on the 23rd June.  Several years later I came across a book "Canoe Trip" by David Curran, in which he  describes his solo trip down the Allagash after having been dropped off on Umsaskis Lake on the 23rd  June 2000.  Although we were clearly on the river at the same time, apart from that distant view I have no recollection of seeing a solo paddler again on that trip.
I thoroughly enjoyed the book so was pleased when towards the end of last year I came across a second book by the same author, "North to Athabasca".  Once I sat down to read the book at the end of last week I quickly became  hooked and finished it in a couple of days.  With his friend Walter they decide to paddle a river, significantly more challenging than the Allagash.  Flying north into Saskatchewan their aim was to paddle the MacFarlane River, a rarely paddled river which flows into Lake Athabasca.
Actually getting to the launch site was a major undertaking and once on the river they were effectively in their own, although as is the case with many remote trips today they did carry a satellite phone.
The river flows through a pristine wilderness with all the challenges that traveling through such an area entails.  Through David's writing we gain a flavour of what they experienced, ranging from the wildlife encountered to the physical challenges involved in paddling in the Canadian north.  They were clearly at home in such an area but I do have to say that I questioned their behaviour with one particular bear, if it had been me I would have been paddling flat out in the opposite direction.
At the end of the book, besides thinking I would always take a GPS with me, my overall feeling was one of envy.
It has been nearly 15 years since I last did a long canoe trip and reading "North to Athabasca" made me realise that it has been too long.  It is an easy book to read, the ideal scenario would be on an aircraft en route to a paddling trip.  Just be prepared to start planning your own adventures.

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I had to complete some work at St Ouens this afternoon so I cycled via the smaller lanes including past this bridge.  Although it no longer links to anywhere, in the past it carried one of the German railway lines which crossed St Ouen's Bay.

There used to be an embankment coming in from the left of the bridge, the remnants of which can still be seen in the fields to the west.  I have thought for a long time that there should be a plaque nearby explaining why this concrete bridge now stands alone below Val de la Mar dam.

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The island woke up to a light covering of snow this morning, resulting in the normal traffic chaos so it was on the bike.  Instead of heading straight to Fort Regent I took a slight detour onto South Hill.  An area overlooking the south coast of Jersey, which I rarely visit.

To the east the sea was flat calm although most of the reefs were covered although Icho Tower was visible in the distance.  The small island directly off the point is Green Island, where some archaeological remains have been found, which are now found at La Hougue Bie.

This is great sea kayaking territory.

A few more scanned slides

These are the last of the old photographs that I have been able to scan in for a while.  Some good memories of paddling in Jersey and further afield.

Derek Hairon on the Roche du Diable in southern Brittany, Easter 1983.  This was a time when canoes were not seen that frequently on white water in Europe.

Playing at Le Mourier Valley.  We used to build little dams to hold back the water and then release it so that it was possible to shoot down the concrete steps.  It was best to do it whilst it was still raining.  It has been quite a few years since we did this last, should be time for a return visit.

Self rescues off Greve de Lecq.  This was experimenting on a Senior Instructor Training course in about 1982.

Nicky off the southern tip of the Quiberon Peninsula in 1984.  We were crossing to Houat, a delightful island, for lunch.

Arriving in Carteret on the Normandy coast.  The 14th July 1989, we had gone over for the 200th anniversary of the storming of the Bastille.

On the Rance in France, in the early 1990's.  It was one of those days when kayaking on the sea would have involved paddling from one sheltered location to the next, but in Brittany there are plenty of sheltered estuaries to head to.

Canoeing in the forests of northern Maine.  Great family holidays in the early 1990's.

The girls may have enjoyed this part of the holiday more.  On the statue of Andre the seal in Rockport.  Andre just a great children's book and film.  The tape version was played for hours on car journeys.

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What a contrast yesterday, there wasn't a breath of wind as I cycled into work.  West Park Pool or the Victoria Marine Lake was originally opened in 1897 to commemorate Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee.  It is one of the largest Marine Lakes in the UK and up until the 1980's it was the focus for a lot of activity in this area of St Helier.  In 1989 I had the concession for kayaks on the pool and used probably the first type of sit on tops to be brought into the Island.

It gradually fell into disrepair, but following a programme of fund raising and support from the Parish of St Helier the pool was officially re-opened to the public on the 18th July 2014.  During the summer months there is the opportunity to rent sit on tops, stand up paddleboards or just to enjoy swimming in the pool.  It is unlikely though, that there will be many days in the summer, when the water will be as smooth as it was this morning.

A windy paddle from La Pulente

I have lost count of the number of times I have driven past La Pulente in a howling gale and when the tide has been at the right height thought about paddling amongst the reefs. Experiencing strong winds but without the rough water. The outer reefs take out the largest swells and with a limited fetch inside the reef there is very little possibility of waves of any size developing.

This morning with low tide at 11.22 we launched at 10.00 and throughout our time on the water the wind didn't drop below 30 knots with frequent gusts up to 46 knots.  So without doubt  it was a steady force 7 from the northwest.

It was perfectly safe as the worst that could happen is that we would get blown onto the beach, in fact for significant amounts of time the depth of the water was such, that we weren't out of our depth.

An ideal venue for practicing skills in high winds.

John and Jim launching.  Although it doesn't really look it but the wind was howling across the rocks forcing us onto the other side of the narrow inlet.

 Progress was made by paddling from one small reef to the next, gaining some shelter and then planning the next few hundred metres.  John was really enjoying himself.

 Turning underneath La Rocco Tower.  It was a matter a paddling into the channel and then turning right into a large gully.  It looked far worse than it actually was.  We did it a couple of times.

 Matt and John making the turn on the first circuit of the reef.

 Matt running down the gully.  With the wind behind us we were traveling at nearly 4 knots without using our paddles.

 Heading out to sea.  We headed out a few hundred metres and then surfed back in.  It was a really quick ride back.

Ruth just enjoying the pleasure of being out on the water

After about 90 minutes of playing around in the wind we headed south, Corbiere Lighthouse is visible above the reef

Back on dry land, time to warm up and have a pint at the La Pulente.

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Matt and John turning in the wind, close to La Rocco Tower.  Whilst we were on the water this morning the data from Jersey Met showed that the wind was consistently above 30 knots and gusting to about 45 knots. 

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The last day of the month and so far I have manged to get out somewhere every day and take a photograph.  Today's picture shows where we hope to be kayaking tomorrow.

I have looked at this area for a number of years and thought at the right state of tide it would be possible to paddle safely in strong winds as the reefs would protect you from the larger waves.  Tomorrow morning the forecast seems ideal NW force 6-7 possibly gusting to 50 mph and low water at 11.22.  The worst that can happen is that you will be blown onto the beach.  So hopefully tomorrow morning we will be able to paddle in the reefs off La Pulente at the southern end of St Ouen's Bay.

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Inspired by thoughts of Morbihan and its rich archaeology I decided to visit the what is probably the oldest dolmen in the Channel Islands this afternoon, being approximately 6,500 years old.  Heading to La Sergente, on the headland above Petit Port it was a matter of dodging the showers which were being blown towards the island on the brisk northwesterly wind.  Sark, on the horizon appears to have missed one but it looks like Herm and Jethou were being hit.

The dolmen was excavated in 1923, prior to this time it was covered by a mound.  During the excavation the only finds were 4 pottery items, there were no human remains present.

Today it is located on the headland between Petit Port and St Ouen's Bay, a special place to visit, particularly at sunset.

Sea Kayak Morbihan 2015

After the pool session last night with the Jersey Canoe Club we headed to the pub as usual for a quick pint and the conversation very quickly turned towards our future trip to Morbihan, on the first weekend in May.  I didn't manage to get there last year but since my first visit in 1984 I have paddled in this sea kayaking mecca numerous times.

It is the combination of strong tidal streams, numerous islands and world class historical sites, which combine to make this area of southern Brittany such a  great kayaking destination.  Roll on May but a quick look at a few photographs whetted the appetite.

 The island of Gavrinis, with the passage tomb clearly visible.  It is believed that it was constructed about 5,500 years ago.  There are great views as you paddle past but to see the ornate carvings inside the tomb it is necessary to travel by boat from Larmor-Baden.

 Sea kayaks on the quayside at Auray.  A delightful paddle up the western side of the Gulf.

 Er Lannic towards low water.  Where else in the world is it possible to paddle through a stone circle.

 Ruth enjoying the sensation of being on the water in Morbihan

 Heading south out of the entrance to the Gulf.  It won't be long to the welcome cool first drink at the campsite bar.  Port Navalo is on the opposite side of the entrance

 The tides are always entertaining.  Nicky is playing on the west coast of Ile aux Moines

 

Larmor-Baden.  Preparations are well under way for the first Greenland rolling competition to be held in Brittany.  We had a superb couple of days judging a large number of Breton paddlers competing in a variety of challenges. 

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Another blustery, cold day with a strong northerly wind, it was gusting at nearly 50 knots when I took this photograph of La Rocco Tower, in St Ouens Bay.  It was built between 1796 and 1801and named Gordon's Tower after the Lieutenant Governor.

It looks particularly dramatic when up close.  It has been recently refurbished and will soon be able for rental from Jersey Heritage.  What a great place to stay!

If you were to head due west from here (straight out to sea) the next landfall is Newfoundland.

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Beauport is one of the most stunning bays on the south coast of Jersey.  It is a popular paddle with the sit on top paddlers who leave from St Brelade's.  The flat area just above and behind the beach is a classic raised beach from when the sea level was about 8 metres above its present level.  Some of the ancient sea cliffs can be seen protruding through the trees on the opposite side of the bay.

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This is the old lighthouse, which stood at the end of St Catherine's Breakwater, warning shipping of the hazard for over 100 years.  Today it stands, outside the Maritime Museum in St Helier, as a memorial to the Islanders who were deported from Jersey and died in concentration camps far from their Island home.

The wreaths were the result of a service earlier in day, as part of Holocaust Memorial Day.

Some more aerial photographs

It has been a while since I have posted some photographs taken out of aircraft windows so here are a few from the last few years.  Some great kayaking destinations seen from above.  With views like these it is hard to understand why anybody would book an aisle seat!

 Passing over Calshot when heading south towards Jersey.  The site of the BCU Sea Touring Committee Symposiums in the early 1990's.

 Greenland West Coast.  The island on the right is Uummannaq and the larger Salliaruseq to the left.  The cliffs and the larger islands are over 1,000 metres high.  This post documents the day we paddled between the two islands.  This was taken whilst flying from Heathrow to Seattle.

 Final approach into Stockholm.  It looked like a kayaking paradise.  Little did we realize the frustration which was to follow after we landed

 Take off from Jersey on a beautiful summers day.  The aircraft is banking north over St Ouen's Bay.

 Sunrise over the Thames estuary.  The south coast of Essex is clearly visible, just minutes after leaving Heathrow.

 A few hours later the Essex coast had been replaced by the Turkish coast to the west of Istanbul.

Approaching Heathrow.  The rectangular shaped water directly in front of the engine is the location of Tower Hamlets Canoe Club, an area we have visited regularly over the years as members of the Jersey Canoe Club paddle with kayakers from London.

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Look east from the cliff path along Fiquet Bay early this afternoon.  The rock formation on the right is the Grosse Tete, where the swell was running yesterday as we paddled along this stretch of coast.

Beyond is Pt Le Fret, possibly the most dramatic headland on the south coast of the island but great paddling.

Sea kayaking Sunday morning - St Brelade's

The last Sunday morning session with the Jersey Canoe Club saw much warmer weather than we have been experiencing over the last few days.  Launching from St Brelade's the plan was to head towards Corbiere but it was necessary to take into consideration that we still had an 11+ metre Spring Tide and there was a swell approaching from the North Atlantic.

It was a reasonable turn out for the time of the year, there were 17 of us heading along the south coast of the Island, experiencing some constantly changing conditions.  We turned back just before Corbiere, spending some time working on skills, something we probably don't do frequently enough.  The Peregrine, which flew over whilst we were looking at edging was a real bonus. 

A pint sitting outside, at the end of the session, was a treat for the end of January.

 

 Passing through the gap between St Brelade's Bay and Beauport.  In the summer months this is one of my favourite places to stop and swim.  There are some great jumps off the rocks, particularly towards high water.

 Just entering Beauport, one of the most beautiful bays on the Island.  In the summer months there would be numerous boats at anchor in the bay but we had the water to ourselves today.  

 Approaching the Grosse Tete, just to the west of Beauport.  This was the first time that we had really appreciated the swell

 The swell was certainly arriving in sets. Pete Hargreaves and Peter Wrigglesworth certainly gained some altitude as the passed through the gap.

 Trespass Point, the tide was certainly starting to flow west.  The cliffs behind are a lovely climbing location, short steep routes and sheltered from the prevailing winds.

 We pulled into the bay under the Highlands Hotel.  This is where the Jersey Sea kayak Symposium was based last May.

 Corbiere seemed isolated today.  We decided not to go all the way to the lighthouse.  The swell arriving in sets, the speed of the flow and 17 members in the group, seemed to have the potential to become just a bit too interesting.

 We, therefore, decided to turn and head east along the base of the granite cliffs.

 Some late morning sunshine catching the granite.

 St Brelade's lies ahead.  We had only been out for 2 hours but it had certainly been a morning of contrasting water conditions.